The cave dwellers of southern Tunisia; recollections of a sojourn with the khalifa of Matmata; . between five and six miles an hour when so first it wanted to hurry on, but I restrained it,and we walked past the village of Meiizel, andtraversed the palm groves, where the birds twittered,and the smoke from huts and tents rose to the tree-tops. It was bitterly cold, and we wrapped ourburnouses closely about us. When we rode out ofthe oasis the sun had risen, and cast our shadows inlong lines on the undulating golden-grey plain. Far away to our right the rays of the sun wererefiected


The cave dwellers of southern Tunisia; recollections of a sojourn with the khalifa of Matmata; . between five and six miles an hour when so first it wanted to hurry on, but I restrained it,and we walked past the village of Meiizel, andtraversed the palm groves, where the birds twittered,and the smoke from huts and tents rose to the tree-tops. It was bitterly cold, and we wrapped ourburnouses closely about us. When we rode out ofthe oasis the sun had risen, and cast our shadows inlong lines on the undulating golden-grey plain. Far away to our right the rays of the sun wererefiected from the whitewashed walls of a Maraboutstomb, built on a hillside. There also stood theposte optiqua, which is in communication withanother on a mountain near Medinin, the southernmilitary station. AVe allowed our horses to break into a handgallop that refreshed us in the beautiful morning, 1:20 CAVE DWELLERS as, with a keen sense of enjoyment, we followed tlietracks that, with countless windings, led towardstlie west. There was little vegetation ; the land lay beforeus barren and IN THE MOUNTAINS—ON THE KOAD TO AIN IIAMMAM. Before reachinor the summit of a slioht rise wepulled up our horses to a walk, and presently lookedback from tlie top of the eminence. A haze hung directly over Gabes ; the palms ofthe oasis extended as far as the sea, and behindthem glittered the bright waves. Away towardsthe south we could distinguish the blue peaks of FROM GABES TO EL HAMMA 121 the Matmata mountains. Here and tlierc on thephiin l)lue-grey smoke rose into the air. The heat of the sun became scorching, so weallowed our horses to go at foots pace during theremainder of the way. In Africa one finds but twopaces—a walk, or rather an amble, and a gallop ;but on a long summer journey the gallop or canteris rarely used ; Berber horses, therefore, are trainedto walk fast. It is expected of a die val de laplaine that lie should be un hon marcheur, that isto say, that he can be depe


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Keywords: ., bookcentury1800, bookdecade1890, bookpublisheretcetc, bookyear189