. Impressions of Spain in 1866. mmon with the other charitable foundationsof Spain. 22 MA num. CHAri^EU 11. MAIVKID. But the cold whuls blew isharply, aiul oiir tra-Acllers resolved to luirry south, and reserve thefiirtlier treasures of Burgos for inspeetion on theirreturn. The night train conveyed them safelyto Madrid, wliere they found a most comfortablehotel in tlie Yilh> de Paris; lately opened by anenterprising Frenchman, in the Puerta del Sol;;nid received the kindest of Avelcomes from theEnglish minister, the Count T. D., and othei- oldfriends. It was Sundav morniui*, and the lirstob
. Impressions of Spain in 1866. mmon with the other charitable foundationsof Spain. 22 MA num. CHAri^EU 11. MAIVKID. But the cold whuls blew isharply, aiul oiir tra-Acllers resolved to luirry south, and reserve thefiirtlier treasures of Burgos for inspeetion on theirreturn. The night train conveyed them safelyto Madrid, wliere they found a most comfortablehotel in tlie Yilh> de Paris; lately opened by anenterprising Frenchman, in the Puerta del Sol;;nid received the kindest of Avelcomes from theEnglish minister, the Count T. D., and othei- oldfriends. It was Sundav morniui*, and the lirstobject was to find a chin-ch near at hand. Thesearc not wanting in IMadrid, but all are modern,and few in i^ood taste : the nicest and best servedis undoubtedlv that of St. Louis des Francais,though the approach to it through the crowdedmarket is rather disaureeable earlv in the morn-ing. The wittv writer of Les Lettres (fEspagne says truly : ^ladrid ne me dit neii: cest moderne,tiligne, propre et civilise. As for the climate, it. ^ MADRID. 23 is detestable : bitterly cold in winter, the east windsearching out every rheumatic joint in onesframCj and pitilessly driving round the corners ofevery street; burning hot in summer, with a glareand dust which nearly equal that of Cairo in asimoom. The Gallery, however, compensates for all. Ourtravellers had spent months at Florence, at Rome,at Dresden, and fimcied that nothing could comeup to the Pitti, the Uffizi, or the Vatican—thatno picture could equal the San Sisto ; but theyfound they had yet much to learn. No one whohas not been in Spain can so much as imaginewhat Murillo is. In England, he is looked uponas the clever painter of picturesque brown beggar-boys : there is not one of these subjects to befound in Spain, from St. Sebastian to Gibraltar!At Madrid, at Cadiz, but especially at Seville,one learns to know him as he is—i. e. the greatmystical religious painter of the seventeenth cen-tury, embodying in his wonderful concept
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