The Keif method of cutting coats and vests . st, 1 addfrom 10 to 9 i inch for every inch the waist exceeds the breast, orfrom 10 to 9 is i inch. Measure the width of back from F to 11. Place this amount on1^ and measure to 7, one-half the full waist measure, 2S inches, plusthe distance from 10 to 9, or 2S^ inches. 7 to 8 is H inches for all sizes where the waist is equal or ex-ceeds the breast measure. 8 to R is 1^ inches. Square down from Rand shape the front. As we take out a cut under the arm, point S should recedetoward 3 one-half inch, as per diagram. To prevent the coat hang-ing in folds
The Keif method of cutting coats and vests . st, 1 addfrom 10 to 9 i inch for every inch the waist exceeds the breast, orfrom 10 to 9 is i inch. Measure the width of back from F to 11. Place this amount on1^ and measure to 7, one-half the full waist measure, 2S inches, plusthe distance from 10 to 9, or 2S^ inches. 7 to 8 is H inches for all sizes where the waist is equal or ex-ceeds the breast measure. 8 to R is 1^ inches. Square down from Rand shape the front. As we take out a cut under the arm, point S should recedetoward 3 one-half inch, as per diagram. To prevent the coat hang-ing in folds just below the pit of stomach and to provide a pocket fora corpulent mans stomach, I use the following method: Trim the coat as drafted, then cut a straight line from 8 to theend of pocket at 1, then forward to 16; open from-8 to 9 as perdotted line and the surplus thus formed is folded at the provides a bulge at 1 which serves as a pockel for the hip andthe rest is pressed forward for the stomach. Reshape the bottomof coat. 2T. tSiQ^ram 9. SACK OVERCOAT. The Double Breasted Over-sack is drafted in the same manneras any other sack coat with the exception, of course, it being means that the depths and breadths are made larger. If a lightundercoat is worn draft by adding 2 sizes to the measures as takenfor an undercoat, nothing is added to height or slope of shoulderfrom A to B. Thus a measure of 36 Breast, 32 Waist, 37 Seat,\S Arm size. 3 slope of shoulder, is drafted by a size of 38 Breast,34 Waist, 39 Seat and i inch is added to depth of scye at C but theIncline, indentation and slope of shoulder remains the same as before. The lap in front from N to Q should have an average width of3 inches and the button holes are marked I inch from the edge. Thebuttons are spaced in the same manner as for a D. B. Sack. To getthe front at bottom of all overcoats, first, square down from R to 48then draw a line from Q through R on to 50, divide the distancefrom 48 to
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Keywords: ., bo, bookcentury1800, bookdecade1890, bookidkeifmethodofcutt00keif
