. Two centuries of costume in America, MDCXX-MDCCCXX . ved it; and from similar reverses and glorify-ing equally base objects came the subjects of halfthe crests of English heraldry. The likeness of Pocahontas (facing this page)is dated 1616. It is in the dress of a well-to-doEnglishwoman, a woman of importance and portrait has been a shock to many who ideal-ized the Indian princess as that sweet Americangirl, as Thackeray called her. Especially is itdisagreeable in many of the common prints fromit. One flippant young friend, the wife of an armyofficer, who had been stationed in the


. Two centuries of costume in America, MDCXX-MDCCCXX . ved it; and from similar reverses and glorify-ing equally base objects came the subjects of halfthe crests of English heraldry. The likeness of Pocahontas (facing this page)is dated 1616. It is in the dress of a well-to-doEnglishwoman, a woman of importance and portrait has been a shock to many who ideal-ized the Indian princess as that sweet Americangirl, as Thackeray called her. Especially is itdisagreeable in many of the common prints fromit. One flippant young friend, the wife of an armyofficer, who had been stationed in the far West,said of it, in disgust, remembering her frontierresidence, With a mans hat on ! just like everyold Indian squaw ! This hat is certainly displeas-ing, but it was not worn through Indian taste; itwas an English fashion, seen on women of wealthas well as of the plainer sort. I have a. score ofprints and photographs of English portraits, whereinthis mannish hat is shown. In the original of thisportrait of Pocahontas, the heavy, sombre effect is. Pocahontas. Attire of Virginia Dames 123 much lightened by the gold hatband. These richhatbands were one of the articles of dress prohibitedas vain and extravagant by the Massachusetts magis-trates. They were costly luxuries. We findthem named and valued in many inventories in allthe colonies, and John Pory, secretary of the Vir-ginia colony, wrote about that time to a friend inEngland a sentence which has given, I think to allwho read it, an exaggerated notion of the dress ofVirginians : — u Our cowekeeper here of James citty on Sundays goesaccoutred all in ffreshe fflaminge silke, and a wife of onethat had in England professed the blacke arte not of aScholler but of a Collier weares her rough beaver hatt witha faire perle hatband, and a silken sute there to correspond. Corroborative evidence of the richness and greatcost of these hatbands is found in a letter of SusanMoseley to Governor Yardley of Virginia, tellingof the excha


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Keywords: ., boo, bookcentury1900, bookdecade1900, booksubjectclothinganddress