. China : its marvel and mystery. aterway under suchconditions was delightful. The flat landscape wasstreaked with brilliant lights and dark shadows, andthere were stretches of vivid yellow and green clumpsof trees round a temple. We were constantly meetingor passing great tall square matting-sailed junks, carry-ing all sorts of produce. These junks have a very statelylook about them, and always impress me with a senseof solemnity as they glide slowly and quietly along, theirdark hulls and tall sails reflected in the gleaming waters. Towards afternoon I could see in the distance the tall F 8i
. China : its marvel and mystery. aterway under suchconditions was delightful. The flat landscape wasstreaked with brilliant lights and dark shadows, andthere were stretches of vivid yellow and green clumpsof trees round a temple. We were constantly meetingor passing great tall square matting-sailed junks, carry-ing all sorts of produce. These junks have a very statelylook about them, and always impress me with a senseof solemnity as they glide slowly and quietly along, theirdark hulls and tall sails reflected in the gleaming waters. Towards afternoon I could see in the distance the tall F 8i CHINA: ITS MARVEL AND MYSTERY Loongvvha Pagoda, which told me I was nearing the endof my journey and approaching Shanghai; and gladas I was to land there and receive the welcome of myfriends, and enjoy once more their hospitality, it waswith regret that I said good-bye to the houseboat Scout,on which I had spent a most delightful time. 82 HANGCHOW : LOTUS ISLAND, WEST LAKE Showing one of several Pavilions in this ■^\ o CHAPTER XIV JAPAN A Holiday—Comparisons with China. I FOUND Shanghai, when I returned at the end ofJune, sweltering in damp heat. The people lookedpasty, limp, and tired. The energy of the springhad gone, and, though I had been in great heat atHangchow, my life in the open air kept me from feelingit as much as people shut up, even in those city officesfurnished with electric fans and all modern appliances. Clothes of the thinnest material were of course in evening walk or drive to the Bubbling Well Roadwas the only chance of coolness, and this was very people were talking of where they would goout of the heat, and nowadays they have a greatchoice without leaving China. Wei-hai-wei takes many,Cheefoo is an old favourite resort, and Pei-tai-ho a newone. Many go inland to the hills, others seek greaterchange in Japan ; and as I was told I would find it toohot to work out of doors in Northern China, I deter-mined to have a shor
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