From the Cape to Cairo; the first traverse of Africa from south to north . Fashoda incident. Inthe course of a chequered career I have seen many unwholesome spots;but for a God-forsaken, dry-sucked, fly-blown wilderness, commend me tothe Upper Nile; a desolation of desolations, an infernal region, a howlingwaste of weed, mosquitoes, flies, and fever, backed by a groaning waste ofthorn and stones—waterless and waterlogged. I have passed through it,and have now no fear for the hereafter. And for this choice spot thousandsof homes might have been wrecked, and the whole of civilization rushedinto


From the Cape to Cairo; the first traverse of Africa from south to north . Fashoda incident. Inthe course of a chequered career I have seen many unwholesome spots;but for a God-forsaken, dry-sucked, fly-blown wilderness, commend me tothe Upper Nile; a desolation of desolations, an infernal region, a howlingwaste of weed, mosquitoes, flies, and fever, backed by a groaning waste ofthorn and stones—waterless and waterlogged. I have passed through it,and have now no fear for the hereafter. And for this choice spot thousandsof homes might have been wrecked, and the whole of civilization rushedinto a cockpit of mutual slaughter. Let me recommend France to send 304 FROM THE CAPE TO CAIRO the minister responsible for the Marchand expedition for a short sojourn inthe land: no fitter punishment could be found. What a sensible idea itwould be if ministers of rival nations, foreseeing a dispute, were to buy ina large store of choice wines and cigars, leave them at home, and decide tospend the time, till the dispute should be amicably settled, in the bone CHAPTER XXIY THE SOBAT TO CAIRO I AWOKE in the morning to find the gyassa ^ moored off the Basecamp of Major Peakes sudd-cutting expedition. Close by lay atrim, smart-looking gunboat. All was bustle and stir on board,and it was obvious that they were getting up steam. I drankin the sight, momentarily expecting to see it fade before my eyes, andto find myself once more wearily plodding through those maddeningswamps. The transition from ceaseless anxiety and hungry misery tofull-bellied content and tobacco-soothed repose had been so sudden;I was as a man who, after long time staggering in the dark, is suddenlythrust into the full glare of sunlight, and could hardly grasp that itwas at last all over. Nothing to do but sit and be carried along towardsclean shirts, collars, glasses, friends, all that makes life a thing of many people realize what all these things mean ? How manypeople have ever caught the ex


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