. The "keystone" systems, coats, vests and trousers;. the fold of thematerial. Diagram 37. A back which has been drafted with a shaped center-back-seam may be changed to awhole back by laying the pattern as first drafted over another piece of paper touching astraight line at the top and at the waist as from A to D. The back below the waist lineis shown in dotted lines. Mark all around above the waist line. Pivot the pattern as at the circled disk midway between D and T and swing the partbelow until the center-of-back touches the straight line as from D to 3, then mark below Tand across the bot
. The "keystone" systems, coats, vests and trousers;. the fold of thematerial. Diagram 37. A back which has been drafted with a shaped center-back-seam may be changed to awhole back by laying the pattern as first drafted over another piece of paper touching astraight line at the top and at the waist as from A to D. The back below the waist lineis shown in dotted lines. Mark all around above the waist line. Pivot the pattern as at the circled disk midway between D and T and swing the partbelow until the center-of-back touches the straight line as from D to 3, then mark below Tand across the bottom. This gives 3 and 4. T will then be at 2 and D at i. The material must be stretched on the side seam on the waist line and shrunk at the backcenter opposite, to run with the lines of the original pattern as shown below the waist indotted lines. The center-back-seam may be laid to overlap the fold of the material 4 inch, or 4inch may be taken ofT from the pattern and then laid even with the fold as explained forDiagram 36. THE KEYSTONE SYSTEMS 73. DIAGRAM 36. DIAGRAM 37. THE KEYSTONE SYSTEMS 75 OVERCOATS. npHE measures for an overcoat may he taken oxer tlie vest, tlie same as for an undercoat,?*? Init preferably over the undercoat. Wlien they are taken o\er the vest allowances for extra size must be made as follows : For Lie, I it \\;iii M.\ii-;ri.\i,. Add to the breast 2 inches. waist 2 seat 3 back depth, front depth and blade each 2 inch. For \\ Wkigiit MAn:Ri.\i,. Add to the breast and waist each 22 inches. seat 33 inches. back depth, front depth and blade each J^. inch. u u For Extra Hhaxv Wkight Matkrial. Add to the breast and waist each 3 inches. seat 4 inches. back depth, front depth and blade each i inch. Except as regards size, all overcoats which trace the iorm of the back, as the Chesterfield,are drafted in the same manner as sack coats. The extra length changes in no nuinner theconstruction. For looser overcoats extra allowances must be made to th
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Keywords: ., bookcentury1900, bookdecade1900, bookidkeystonesyst, bookyear1903
