. Highways and byways in Devon and Cornwall. passedthrough in the sea cleft where he spent the remnant of his lifein fruitless repentance for a deed which his descendants haveexpiated ever since. Who has not heard of the weird of theTracys, with ever the wind and the rain in their faces. Suchis the burden laid by the Church on the remote descendants ofhim who struck down the turbulent Archbishop; but there islittle recollection in modern Ilfracombe of all this is it easy to find in the gay town, which seems to live forpleasure, much trace of the small but ancient port which formany
. Highways and byways in Devon and Cornwall. passedthrough in the sea cleft where he spent the remnant of his lifein fruitless repentance for a deed which his descendants haveexpiated ever since. Who has not heard of the weird of theTracys, with ever the wind and the rain in their faces. Suchis the burden laid by the Church on the remote descendants ofhim who struck down the turbulent Archbishop; but there islittle recollection in modern Ilfracombe of all this is it easy to find in the gay town, which seems to live forpleasure, much trace of the small but ancient port which formany centuries played its little part in ocean commerce, andhad its share, as we may well suspect, in those questionable LFR KO > M dealings on the sea for which its lonel) situation well fitted it. In other seaports of the West it is pleasant and appropriateto follow out old history, for nothing in the modern aspect olthose towns supplies too great a contrast But ho\t can the pastcome back on [lfracombe? What could the old days have in. Harbour, I lfracombe common with these new cut drives round ancient cliffs, theseband-stands and asphalted walks and winter shelters which oustthe sea-birds from their nesting places ? It is all new wine in llfracombe. Let us not try to store it in old casks, but ratherhew them up for firewood, and leave the new world to bewholly new. 380 ILFRACOMBE chap. Taken frankly as a modern watering-place, Ilfracombe iscertainly very beautiful. It nestles in a deep hollow amonglofty tors, so humped and twisted that they seem to be stillheaving from the impact of some huge subterranean , on a fine spring morning, when a strong west wind isblowing inshore, the green sea, ruffled over with white breakers,flies nobly flashing round the bay beneath the Capstone cove is full of jagged black reefs ; the green water surgesover them and breaks in dazzling foam. The wind is keenand exhilarating; it sings with a sharp whistle round the roc
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