. Eight journeys abroad. nt round to another side where therewas a gate. From that a narrow street without sidewalks anda gutter in the middle, led up through the little town there the left, quite near the gate, was the Hotel of Poulard Aine,where we were to put up. At the door was Madame, just ashandsome as the book (Three Normandy Inns) describes her,and she ushered us into a great kitchen with a hoveled iire- 203 EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD place—immense—but only a small wood fire. On a spit infront of the fire at least a dozen chickens were turning slowlyand roasting, preparing for the ele


. Eight journeys abroad. nt round to another side where therewas a gate. From that a narrow street without sidewalks anda gutter in the middle, led up through the little town there the left, quite near the gate, was the Hotel of Poulard Aine,where we were to put up. At the door was Madame, just ashandsome as the book (Three Normandy Inns) describes her,and she ushered us into a great kitchen with a hoveled iire- 203 EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD place—immense—but only a small wood fire. On a spit infront of the fire at least a dozen chickens were turning slowlyand roasting, preparing for the eleven oclock dinner. Crowdsof people were coming in, starved, and we concluded to staythere until after breakfast, as we had to mount 200 steps toour rooms in a separate house. So I sat myself down by thefire, which was not too warm (July i8th) and watched MadamePoulard make her celebrated omelettes. There are three dining rooms on three separate floors, oneopposite the kitchen, an open room, and one on the first floor. T SAIXT .MICHEL over the kitchen, and the other above that. I never had a more delicious meal. First, the perfect omelette, then fish cooked to perfection, then chickens so juicy and tender, and large cherries for dessert. The table seated forty people and there were two sets, eleven and twelve oclock. To go to our rooms we crossed the street, went up on the town wall, crossed back over the street by a bridge and went up a circular flight of stone steps to our rooms. The house consisted of four stories of tiny single rooms; the lower floor opened on a terrace with wall and a row of dwarf plantain trees, trimmed very low and making a perfect shade, and tables 204 FRANCE and chairs there. Our rooms were on the second floor and hada porch. I had scarcely made myself comfortable when I heard thevoices of Mrs. Denckla and the others, and was glad enoughto see them, and we all started off together to see the Abbeys,etc., etc. It took us three hours steady climbing a


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