. Collected reprints, Essa Institute for Oceanography. Oceanography -18- 10 2j0- OjO fication of Maward hump smptificotiofi of thot% hump. -I I—I !_ 00 0 0 25 Fig. h. Amplification factors of the two humps, and the ratio of initial heights of the two humps (expressed as a number between 0 and l) versus the product ap . We conclude that the amplification of the first hump (shoreward) is essentially constant, but that the amplification of the second hump (seaward) is strongly dependent on the height of the first hump. The maximum amplification occurs when the seaward h
. Collected reprints, Essa Institute for Oceanography. Oceanography -18- 10 2j0- OjO fication of Maward hump smptificotiofi of thot% hump. -I I—I !_ 00 0 0 25 Fig. h. Amplification factors of the two humps, and the ratio of initial heights of the two humps (expressed as a number between 0 and l) versus the product ap . We conclude that the amplification of the first hump (shoreward) is essentially constant, but that the amplification of the second hump (seaward) is strongly dependent on the height of the first hump. The maximum amplification occurs when the seaward hump is the height of the shoreward hump. For ap between about and , the second hump washes up higher even though it was smaller to begin with. From (20) we see that the maximum value of e without breaking can be determined by making t(\) have an inflection point at the dv (This can be found from Fig. 2.) This maximum maximum value of o\ e is shown in Fig. 5. plotted against ap . For values ap and e below the curve, the wave does not break, and for values above the curve, the wave breaks,. Please note that these images are extracted from scanned page images that may have been digitally enhanced for readability - coloration and appearance of these illustrations may not perfectly resemble the original Institute for Oceanography; Atlantic Oceanographic Laboratories (U. S. ); Pacific Oceanographic Laboratories; United States. Environmental Science Services Administration. Research Laboratories. Washington, D. C. : U. S. Dept. of Commerce, Environmental Science Services Administration, Research Laboratories : For sale by the Supt. of Docs. , U. S. G. P. O.
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