Linen . lenders and mangles which areassociated with them, we may pause to see the inter-mediate stage of cropping, whereby rough ends andloose fibres on the surface are cut away by a series ofsharp knives as the fabric passes through a specialmachine. The aim of calendering is to bring up a still moreglossy surface. The machine is made up of a series ofrollers and cylinders placed alternately one above theother in a strong framework. The cylinders are metaland hollow, while the rollers are solid, being made ofcompressed paper, very hard and even-surfaced. Thecloth, having been wound on a roll
Linen . lenders and mangles which areassociated with them, we may pause to see the inter-mediate stage of cropping, whereby rough ends andloose fibres on the surface are cut away by a series ofsharp knives as the fabric passes through a specialmachine. The aim of calendering is to bring up a still moreglossy surface. The machine is made up of a series ofrollers and cylinders placed alternately one above theother in a strong framework. The cylinders are metaland hollow, while the rollers are solid, being made ofcompressed paper, very hard and even-surfaced. Thecloth, having been wound on a roller at the foot of themachine, is passed on to the first cylinder and then tothe solid roller. From thence it goes to another cylinder,and then to the next roller, and so on until it is finallydelivered behind. In its progress it is by weights andlever movement kept firmly under a pressure varyingfrom a few pounds up to 5 tons per square inch. Thecloth is often beetled fifty, sixty, or seventy hours ; 150. Bleaching and Finishing though at stated periods, usually every four or five hours,the machine is stopped and the fabric surface reversed. During the earlier part of the process, while the clothis wet, the hammering flattens the thread and fills upthe interstices; simultaneously the heat generated bythe constant falling of the beetle dries the cloth. Assoon as it begins to dry, the plys of cloth on the rollersbecome free, the falling beetles cause the threads to rubagainst each other, and the friction produces the glosson the surface of the cloth. Mangling, which is a successionary and largely sub-sidiary process, is similar to beetling, though the pressureapplied is much heavier, ranging up to probably 60 tonsto the square inch. Then after being mangled it isprobable that the fabric will again revert to a secondcalendering process, where the cylinders are heated byinternal gas jets. Of course, linen is also dyed, and the beautiful colourswhich lend so much eclat to ladies lin
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Keywords: ., bookcentury1900, bookdecade1920, bookidlinen00moor, bookyear1922
