Thailand: Hua Laem, Ko Muk, Trang Province. Ko Muk or ‘Pearl Island’ lies 13 km (8 miles) due south of Trang’s Pak Meng Pier. Until fairly recently a remote back-packer destination with a small resident population of Chao Lae ‘Sea Gypsies’, Ko Muk is fast developing into a more up-market destination. Tham Morakot or ‘Emerald Cave’ is a major local attraction. Visitors have to swim about 75 metres (240 ft) through a water-filled cavern at high tide, part of the swim being in virtual pitch darkness, to reach a hong or sea-filled lagoon that is otherwise shut off from the outside world.

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