. Dr. Wampen's world renowned system of anthropometry as simplified and Americanized by J. Happle-Hutcheson;. centerseam of back at natural waist level mark for-ward with common inch measure—making al-lowance for fish taken out at side body—thenet half waist measure, and add on one inch,less or more, according to taste, special re-quirements of customer, or degree of fullnessor scantiness desired. Personally we favorone inch as per broken line, which in thehands of a good jour., who is an expert ma-nipulator, gives a neither too full, flabby, northat low-class trade amateurish scantiness thatw
. Dr. Wampen's world renowned system of anthropometry as simplified and Americanized by J. Happle-Hutcheson;. centerseam of back at natural waist level mark for-ward with common inch measure—making al-lowance for fish taken out at side body—thenet half waist measure, and add on one inch,less or more, according to taste, special re-quirements of customer, or degree of fullnessor scantiness desired. Personally we favorone inch as per broken line, which in thehands of a good jour., who is an expert ma-nipulator, gives a neither too full, flabby, northat low-class trade amateurish scantiness thatwas wont to afflict us with New York sarto-rial art ennui. In New York City we haveactually seen distinguished American gentle-men, of national fame, with the lapels of theirdress coat cut off on a line with the waistseam, the skirt strap coming flush with frontedge of lapel. The sleeves of a dress coatshould be a trifle narrower and shorter thanthe frock. The back pitch should also be atrifle narrower than that of the frock, and thehip buttons not quite so far apart as in thesemi-dress form of PROGRESSIVE ANTHROPOMETRJCAL SARTORIAL ART SCIENCE. 59 DRESS COAT LAPELS. The two forms of dress coat lapels as givenon Plate C are a fair representation of theaverage outlines of the two most popular ofpresent-day forms, the scimitar form being thegreater favorite with the youthful dandy andsemi-swell class of that order that are notsocially recognized as of the regular diner-out order. This form of lapel is calculatedto give more white bosom spread. Its boldoutline sweep carries with it such a strongsuggestion of swell, rakish dash we have posi-tively refused to recommend it te» the clergy,while we declare it perfectly homogeneouswith the make-up of the Thespian, and espe-cially well adapted to that of a swell ring-master of the modern circus, or any bunch ofstruggling old Beau Brummell sports that arestriving to look young; but a full-fledgedscimitar lapel would be fatal t
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Keywords: ., bookcentury1900, bookdecade1900, bookiddrwampenswor, bookyear1903
