. Brick and marble in the middle ages: notes of tours in the north of Italy . inted section, whichgives considerable character to an otherwise insipid west front has doorways of Lombard character, andabove them a large rose window; but every part of theexterior and interior seems to have been so much alteredthat little remains of the original work. Internally works of restoration were going on, and thesepermitted me to see that the whole church had a great dealof colour introduced on the walls and over the groining,though I was unable to ascertain anything satisfactorily asto its age
. Brick and marble in the middle ages: notes of tours in the north of Italy . inted section, whichgives considerable character to an otherwise insipid west front has doorways of Lombard character, andabove them a large rose window; but every part of theexterior and interior seems to have been so much alteredthat little remains of the original work. Internally works of restoration were going on, and thesepermitted me to see that the whole church had a great dealof colour introduced on the walls and over the groining,though I was unable to ascertain anything satisfactorily asto its age or character. About ten minutes walk from the cathedral is the fineLombard church of Sta. Maria. This has unfortunately beenmuch modernized, but its east end with an apse arcadedoutside, and finished with a fine eaves-cornice rich in shadow,is still extremely striking and almost unaltered. It is builtof black and white stone. Here, alas! I remember that Ithought fit the time of my first visit, ends my hurried studyof Ciothic architecture in Italy. But if at that day it was. ^4. $Tfl }AR^m. coyio. 342 Chap. XII.] COMO. 343 somewliat sad to leave Como after an all too rapid journey,it lias been my happiness to revisit the quaint old townagain and again since, and each time with iiicreased scenery, Italian art, Italian travel, afford some of thehappiest recollections of well-spent days of travel, which, iftliey have never been able to exceed in pleasure or to ap-proach in profit the remembrances of travels in my ownand other lands, undertaken for the same purpose, arenevertheless full to overflowing with lessons in art which notrue architect could afford to despise or wish to forget. 344 DEPARTURE FROM COMO. [Chap. XIII. CHAPTER XIII. And now farewell to Italy—perhapsFor ever ! Yet, methinks, I could not go,I could not leave it, were it mine to say Farewell for ever ! Rotjers. Departure from Coiuo — Varese — Lake of Varese — Italian Boatmen —Intra — La
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