. English costume. WILLIAM AND MARY 27 high masses over the forehead. The top-not is a large bow worn at the top of the commode ; and the fontage or tower is a P^rench arrangement of alternate layers of lace and ribbon raised one above another about half a yard high. It was invented in the time of Louis XIV., about 1680, by Mademoiselle Fontage. The rayonne is a cloth hood pinned in a circle. The meurtriers, or murderers, are those twists in the hair which tie or unloose the arrangements of curls; and the * creve-coeurs are the row of little forehead curls of the previous reign. A muffetee is


. English costume. WILLIAM AND MARY 27 high masses over the forehead. The top-not is a large bow worn at the top of the commode ; and the fontage or tower is a P^rench arrangement of alternate layers of lace and ribbon raised one above another about half a yard high. It was invented in the time of Louis XIV., about 1680, by Mademoiselle Fontage. The rayonne is a cloth hood pinned in a circle. The meurtriers, or murderers, are those twists in the hair which tie or unloose the arrangements of curls; and the * creve-coeurs are the row of little forehead curls of the previous reign. A muffetee is a little muff, and a chapeau-bras is a hat never worn, but made to be carried under the arm by men or women ; for the men hated to disarrange their wigs. Plumpers were artificial arrangements for fill-ing out the cheeks, and watchet eyes are blueeyes. The ladies have changed a good deal by themiddle of this reign : they have looped up the gown 4—2. :u£> 28 ENGLISH COSTUME till it makes side-panniers and a bag-like droop at the back ; the under-gown has a long train, and the bodice is long-waisted. Thefront of the bodice is lacedopen, and shows either anarrangement of ribbon andlace or a piece of the materialof the under-gown. Black pinners in silk with adeep frill are worn as well asthe white lace and linen ladies wear short blackcapes of thisstuff with adeep frill. Sometimes,instead of thefontage, a lady wears a lace shawl over her head and shoulders, or a sort of lace cap bedizened with coloured sleeves are like a mans, except that they come to the elbow only, showing a white under-sleeve of lace gathered into a deep frill of lace just below the elbow.


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Keywords: ., bookcentury1900, bookdecade1900, bookpublisherlondo, bookyear1906