. The near East; Dalmatia, Greece and Constantinople. in the deep shadows of the paved alleys which areZaras streets, move brilliant colors, scarlet and sil-ver, blue and crimson and silver. Multitudes ofcoins and curious heavy ornaments glitter on thecaps and the dresses of women. Enormous boys andgreat, striding men, brave in embroidered jackets,with bright-red caps too small for the head, silverbuttons, red sashes stuck full of weapons and otherimpedimenta, gaiters, and pointed shoes, marchhither and thither, calmly intent on some businesswhich has brought them in from the outlying dis-tric
. The near East; Dalmatia, Greece and Constantinople. in the deep shadows of the paved alleys which areZaras streets, move brilliant colors, scarlet and sil-ver, blue and crimson and silver. Multitudes ofcoins and curious heavy ornaments glitter on thecaps and the dresses of women. Enormous boys andgreat, striding men, brave in embroidered jackets,with bright-red caps too small for the head, silverbuttons, red sashes stuck full of weapons and otherimpedimenta, gaiters, and pointed shoes, marchhither and thither, calmly intent on some businesswhich has brought them in from the outlying dis-tricts. It varies, of course, with the changing sea-sons. In the latter part of October and beginning ofNovember most of the male peasants were sellingvery large hares. Live cocks and hens were beingdisposed of by many of the women, and it is a com-mon thing in Zara to see well-dressed people bearingabout with them bunches of puffed-out and drearilyblinking poultry, which they have bought casuallyat some corner; by the great Venetian tower; or near I 2. x^ PICTURESQUE DALMATIA the round, two-storied church of San Donato,founded on the spot where once stood a Romanforum, whose pavement still remains; or perhaps by-San Simeone, close to the palace of the governor,where under the black eagles of Austria the sentry,in blue and bright yellow, stands drowsily in thesunshine before his black and yellow box. Sometimes the peasants bring live stock tochurch. One morning, on a week day, I went intoSan Simeone, to which Queen Elizabeth of Hungarygave the superb area of silver gilt which contains, itis said, the remains of the saint. I found there anumber of peasants, men and women, all in charac-teristic costumes. Only peasants were there. Somewere quietly sitting, some kneeling, some standing,with their market-baskets set down on the pave-ment beside them. In a hidden place behind thehigh altar, above which is raised the great, carvedsarcophagus, priests were droning the office. Apeasant in
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Keywords: ., bookcentury1900, bookdecade1910, bookidneareastdalm, bookyear1913
