A treatise on architecture and building construction . 42. and should have a drip on the under side, as shown at width of the coping should be about 3 or 4 inches morethan that of the wall. Horizontal coping stones are oftenclamped together at the ends to prevent their becomingdisplaced. 81. Gable copings do not need to be pitched, but shouldproject about \\ inches beyond the face of the outside wall,and should have a sharp outer edge to shed rain, so that itwill not flow down the wall. The coping should be well 2-14 44 MASONRY. anchored, either by bond stones or by long iron ties.
A treatise on architecture and building construction . 42. and should have a drip on the under side, as shown at width of the coping should be about 3 or 4 inches morethan that of the wall. Horizontal coping stones are oftenclamped together at the ends to prevent their becomingdisplaced. 81. Gable copings do not need to be pitched, but shouldproject about \\ inches beyond the face of the outside wall,and should have a sharp outer edge to shed rain, so that itwill not flow down the wall. The coping should be well 2-14 44 MASONRY. anchored, either by bond stones or by long iron ties. Aform of coping that is considerably used is shown in Fig. 43,. Fig. 43. in which a is the coping; c, the corbel; and d, the bottom stone, sometimes known as the knccler, which should always be well bonded into the wall. It is well to have long pieces of coping, so as to have as few joints as possible;a common length is 6feet. A short piece,cut as shown at«, , should be insertedat intervals to securelybond the coping to thewall. In some casesthe part resting on thewall is cut in steps, sothat each stone has aFig. 44. level bearing, but this is objectionable, on account of the increased number of joints.
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