Blue waters and green and the Far East today . c. Huge barges pulled by coolies, men andwomen, half-naked, glistening with sweat, trudgedthe tow-path, and with their breasts in a rope pulledagainst the swift current. Passenger boats wellfilled drawn the same way. Picnic parties gay withkimonos flashing smiles at us as we passed. Patientfishermen angling without apparent results. Vil-lages with a few scattering houses, waving bamboos,lotus blooming along the banks, and strange wild-flowers everywhere on the slopes. Above us thegreen-clad hills, far off across the valley, other hillsmelting into


Blue waters and green and the Far East today . c. Huge barges pulled by coolies, men andwomen, half-naked, glistening with sweat, trudgedthe tow-path, and with their breasts in a rope pulledagainst the swift current. Passenger boats wellfilled drawn the same way. Picnic parties gay withkimonos flashing smiles at us as we passed. Patientfishermen angling without apparent results. Vil-lages with a few scattering houses, waving bamboos,lotus blooming along the banks, and strange wild-flowers everywhere on the slopes. Above us thegreen-clad hills, far off across the valley, other hillsmelting into blue haze in the distance, and all aboutus the sparkling, multicolored, busy Japanese crossing the sea for, that trip was, the mostinteresting, I think, of all our side trips. Another tunnel, but shorter (the first is over amile in length), and then two shorter ones, and Kiotois below us, and far off, a dim streak where lies theBay of Kobe. It takes an hour, this unique trip, and simply asan engineering marvel it is worth it.[250]. JAPANESE FISHERMAN. JAPA1N We shot the famous rapids, between Kameoka andArashiyama, one of the most picturesque of wandered through more temples, saw the newpalace (no great sight), and the Imperial Gardens,till our four days were gone, like a dream, and it wastime to go. I have never enjoyed four days more, for no cityin the world is more purely characteristic of its people,more unspoiled by foreign contact, than this old atmosphere is all Japan. We had intended to spend a day at Myanoshita, awatering-place between Kioto and Yokohama, buta washout on the railroad—how familiar that sounded!—necessitated a long detour, and we gave it up andtraveled direct to Yokohama. A RAILWAY TRIP. The Japanese railways are practically all state-owned, all narrow-gauge, and fairly well built. Isay fairly. The road-bed is good, but not of the engines are all of English make, and the speedseldom goes above thirty miles an ho


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