. The days of the Directoire . e arbiter elegantiarum,the incarnation of the mode; and MademoiselleBertin resorted thither to discover one day whatParis was to wear the next. Under the Revolutionall is changed ; fashion is democratic now andcommon property; its tyranny is exercised by alland sundry, each in turn, and in this anarchy oftaste, over which Madame Tallien reigns withoutgoverning, the individual initiative of caprice andcoquetry succeeds to the omnipotence of Courtexample. Freed from the constraints of yesterday, fashionharks back to the models of Greece and Rome, and,encouraged by
. The days of the Directoire . e arbiter elegantiarum,the incarnation of the mode; and MademoiselleBertin resorted thither to discover one day whatParis was to wear the next. Under the Revolutionall is changed ; fashion is democratic now andcommon property; its tyranny is exercised by alland sundry, each in turn, and in this anarchy oftaste, over which Madame Tallien reigns withoutgoverning, the individual initiative of caprice andcoquetry succeeds to the omnipotence of Courtexample. Freed from the constraints of yesterday, fashionharks back to the models of Greece and Rome, and,encouraged by the patriotic school, returns to thecostumes that were in vogue in days before are borrowed from all quarters of the world;but of all these adaptations, none are so important andso rapidly successful as those taken from GreatBritain ; none make more perverts among the fairParisiennes from the Classic tunic. Anglomaniais in full bloom ; whatever is not touched withanglomania is proscribed by our metveilleuses as. FRENCH COS1 IMil, I 792I The Reign of Louis XI /—Revolution) COSTUME 189 something vulgar and uncivilized, fit only to give afashionable lady the vapours. On the other hand,everything coming from this country, with which theRepublic is at war, is feted and applauded. In thesame way Pmssomania had reigned in France duringthe Seven Years War, and we took our revenge forRosbach by wearing none but hats a la , shawls, hats, spencers a delicious cos-tume, are appreciated by Republican elegance onlywhen they have travelled across the Channel. Nevertheless this anglomania, much honoured asit is, is rather a momentary diversion than a lastinginnovation in costume ; anticomania is and remainsthe true and permanent expression of the idea once started, the principle of social changeadmitted, inspiration and model were ready to and Roman antiquity, of which the newRepublic endeavoured to be the heir in everything,were the obviou
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