. Nine years in Nipon. Sketches of Japanese life and manners. mbedded in rows, silt soon accumulating about them,and if not carried away vegetation springs up and stillfurther guards the banks. The road is lined most of the way with venerable pinetrees, and the humble beggar in a Japanese novel alwayslooks to end his days, nameless and forgotten, under theshadow of one of those great trees. The telegraph is seennearly all the way. In some places great spiders hangtough threads over the path, which crack across yoursmarting face with a twang almost like that made by apiece of pack-thread. Every


. Nine years in Nipon. Sketches of Japanese life and manners. mbedded in rows, silt soon accumulating about them,and if not carried away vegetation springs up and stillfurther guards the banks. The road is lined most of the way with venerable pinetrees, and the humble beggar in a Japanese novel alwayslooks to end his days, nameless and forgotten, under theshadow of one of those great trees. The telegraph is seennearly all the way. In some places great spiders hangtough threads over the path, which crack across yoursmarting face with a twang almost like that made by apiece of pack-thread. Every few miles or so you find a tea-house, and in busyplaces there may be several in one miles distance, whereyou may have a cup of tea and a quiet smoke. As we dashed through Shidzuoka with its old ivied castle,. Ten Days on the Tokaido. 187 where the ex-Shogun now lives in dignified retirement farfrom the din of the world, we passed some great hulkingover-fed giants in peculiar attire—one after another inrapid procession, as if one were in a nightmare. They. A Cup of Tea and a Quiet Svioke. (Japanese Sketch.) were professional wrestlers who were to perform in townthat evening. Soon afterwards we came to a turn of theroad where through a veil of mist we looked sheer down intoa boiling, foaming sea, and by-and-by a great plain openedout to view, from which arose in ever steeper sweep the greatwood-embroidered flanks of Fuji, stupendous and seemingto merge into heaven itself, as I have seen no othermountain do, and not even Fuji from any other singlepoint of view. We had to ascend Hakone Pass in cages. The priceagreed upon was declared to be too little, and our gentlebearers began a series of mild persecutions, bumping ourpoor weary bones and giving us constant cc asion to 188 Nine Years in Nipon, change our position. I began to see that this little gamewas proving a very great amusement to our demureoriental friends, so I passed the word to my companion totake revenge, and a very


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