Highways and byways in Surrey . ompaniment of a troutfarm he may hope to escape—the sight of a dead wire netting, kingfishers find out the young fry onlytoo quickly, and a dead kingfisher spoils all pleasure for afisherman. And so, from Haslemere by a rough path up the hill, orthrough Shottermill by a straight main road, or a shady lanegrown over with almost every tree of hedgerows and woods, wecome to Hindhead. There are many ways to the top, andthese, though in some ways the most convenient, are not thebest. But the best, which is to reach it by the old Portsmouthroad from


Highways and byways in Surrey . ompaniment of a troutfarm he may hope to escape—the sight of a dead wire netting, kingfishers find out the young fry onlytoo quickly, and a dead kingfisher spoils all pleasure for afisherman. And so, from Haslemere by a rough path up the hill, orthrough Shottermill by a straight main road, or a shady lanegrown over with almost every tree of hedgerows and woods, wecome to Hindhead. There are many ways to the top, andthese, though in some ways the most convenient, are not thebest. But the best, which is to reach it by the old Portsmouthroad from Thursley, can be kept for later in the day. Theworst way to see Hindhead is to follow the motor-cars up the mainroad. The motor-cars see the road, but never Hindhead at all. 146 TYNDALLS ALP Hindhead is the most superb and the most disappointingthing in Surrey. A quarter of a century ago it was wild moor-land ; then Professor Tyndall proclaimed that since he couldnot go to the Bel Alp, he would go to the next best place, and. Brookbank Cottage, Shoticrinill, where George Eliot lived /or a time. from that day the hill has changed to streets, villas, and arrives every Saturday: London swarms on you can still see, or can guess, something of the grandeur XII MURDER BY NIGHT 147 and loneliness of the place; best, perhaps, on the east and thenorthern slopes towards Thursley; most fully, alone on thehighest point. Gibbet Hill. Hindhead, before the town came there, had a grisly soundin the name. The Hindhead murder has grown from a sordidcase of robbery and killing into one of the great crimes ofEnglish local history. Nothing would have seemed less likelyto the murderers. Probably not one of them could read orwrite; perhaps any sensible calculation of the chances ofescape was beyond them ; possibly they never planned themurder at all. Their crime, in a sense, was paltry; if it hadnever been discovered, there would have been no furtherconsequences ; no one bu


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