A practical treatise on artificial crown- and bridge-work . it on the lead anvil, put over it a piece of flat metal, and with asmart blow from a hummer drive the wire into the lead (). Upon removing the wire an exact impression of the ringwill be left in the lead anvil. (This part of the work, as indeedall others, should be done carefully as described. The wire ringmay be driven into the lead by a direct Idow of the hammerface, but the blow might not strike equally, and the interpositionof the flat metal held level insures an even impression. A pieceof an old file is best, as the file-c
A practical treatise on artificial crown- and bridge-work . it on the lead anvil, put over it a piece of flat metal, and with asmart blow from a hummer drive the wire into the lead (). Upon removing the wire an exact impression of the ringwill be left in the lead anvil. (This part of the work, as indeedall others, should be done carefully as described. The wire ringmay be driven into the lead by a direct Idow of the hammerface, but the blow might not strike equally, and the interpositionof the flat metal held level insures an even impression. A pieceof an old file is best, as the file-cuts keep the wire from slipping.)Next, cut the wire ring at the lap, straighten out the wire,<nnd select a suitable collar by comparing the length of the wirewith the straight lines in the diagram (Fig. 490) which show theinside diameters of the various sizes. Should none of thesecorrespond exactly, take preferably the next size smaller. It willbe remembered that the collars are No. 30 in thickness, while 252 ARTIFICIAL CROWN- AND BRIDGE-WORK. Fig. 496
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Keywords: ., bookcentury1800, bookdecade1880, booksubjectcrowns, bookyear1889
