Hungary and the Hungarians . em. Toget into Bosnia was an easier matter. There was nothingfor it but to go back to Uj-Dombovar, and catch anexpress to the chief town of the Hungarian Littoral. Now I have visited Fiume half a score times, butevery time I discover something new to interest will explain much. There the town stands, wellin the arm of Quarnero Bay. I expected a softSouthern atmosphere, and I was not the greater part of the people speak feel of the town was so anti-Hungarian. Yetits Hungarys only bit of sea. Herein lies much ofits importance. Wh
Hungary and the Hungarians . em. Toget into Bosnia was an easier matter. There was nothingfor it but to go back to Uj-Dombovar, and catch anexpress to the chief town of the Hungarian Littoral. Now I have visited Fiume half a score times, butevery time I discover something new to interest will explain much. There the town stands, wellin the arm of Quarnero Bay. I expected a softSouthern atmosphere, and I was not the greater part of the people speak feel of the town was so anti-Hungarian. Yetits Hungarys only bit of sea. Herein lies much ofits importance. When I arrived the place was allastir, for the British Fleet was expected, with LordCharles Beresford in command, Fiume had dressedherself in her best. Italian and Magyar enthusiasmand admiration ran high. I preferred the town a triflemore normal. When the English tars marched intothe Piazza Adamich, they encountered that crowdwhich sits and stares and silently admires. But ifI preferred normality, there was something pleasing. BEHIND THE TOWN OF PECS FROM BEATEN TRACKS 327 in seeing so many homely faces and hearing onesmother tongue again. A day or so later, Fiumesettled down for me to see it as it really is. I heardthe banda cittadina play, and visited the torredella citta. This old fortress is covered with in-scriptions. Here one may learn that there was agreat earthquake in 1750, and also that from a spotquite near the city of Fiume sent its contribution ofearth to the coronation hill of Francis Joseph I. Oneneeds a large notebook for Fiume. Leave the mainstreet, the one main street, for a moment, and enter theGomila, and you will find a bit of old Levant waitingfor you. How I revel in these parts of a historic town-ship ! Look at those narrow, uneven lanes, literallyswarming with people. Stand in the middle for amoment, and listen a while to the almost monotonoushammering of the coopers, then contrast it with thesharp metallic ring of the locksmiths. It is like trebleand bas
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