. (not to scale) Figure : Schematic of wave flume Hmo/h = up to about 15% for Hmo/h = (where Hmo is the incident spectral significant wave height and h is the water depth) (Sultan 1992; Sultan and Hughes 1993). The water surface was measured by capacitance wave rods, calibrated with a cubic calibration function. The velocity data were collected using a Dantek laser Doppler velocimeter (LDV) system operated in the backscatter mode. The LDV system fea- tured a 2-watt argon-ion laser equipped with a fiber-optic probe that measures two orthogonal water velocity components (horizontal a
. (not to scale) Figure : Schematic of wave flume Hmo/h = up to about 15% for Hmo/h = (where Hmo is the incident spectral significant wave height and h is the water depth) (Sultan 1992; Sultan and Hughes 1993). The water surface was measured by capacitance wave rods, calibrated with a cubic calibration function. The velocity data were collected using a Dantek laser Doppler velocimeter (LDV) system operated in the backscatter mode. The LDV system fea- tured a 2-watt argon-ion laser equipped with a fiber-optic probe that measures two orthogonal water velocity components (horizontal and vertical). Velocity data were converted in real time to engineering units (m/s) and written to a computer file simultaneously with the wave rod data. The wave rods and LDV were placed near the middle of the flume, with the wave rods arranged in an equilateral triangle with leg length of (see Fig. ). The LDV was situated to measure the horizontal and vertical velocities at the center of the array, at a variety of vertical elevations. The flume was allowed to reach quiescence in between runs, and the waves were measured for only a short time after starting the
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