Travels in Ladâk, Tartary, and Kashmir . at last at perfection;meanwhile, the devout in the neighbourhood re-gularly supplied him with food. Nurla is one of-the largest, most populous,and thriving villages that we saw,; it is lowerand warmer than the country we had passedthrough as yet, and the fruit-trees and planta-tions of willow and poplar grew very we breakfasted and changed coolies. FromNurla to Khallach the road followed the courseof the Indus, which is here shut in on eitherside by lofty cliffs of red clay; every now andthen these recede from the rivers bank, leavinga
Travels in Ladâk, Tartary, and Kashmir . at last at perfection;meanwhile, the devout in the neighbourhood re-gularly supplied him with food. Nurla is one of-the largest, most populous,and thriving villages that we saw,; it is lowerand warmer than the country we had passedthrough as yet, and the fruit-trees and planta-tions of willow and poplar grew very we breakfasted and changed coolies. FromNurla to Khallach the road followed the courseof the Indus, which is here shut in on eitherside by lofty cliffs of red clay; every now andthen these recede from the rivers bank, leavinga slip of land, generally under before reaching Khallach the road crossesa deep watercourse, and then ascends a steeppitch, on the top of which is a large clear tank,fed by a little aqueduct from the hill above it,whose waters find an exit on its south side, andhelp to make green the fields of the Khallachvillages; its cool depths promised joys unspeak-rable to dusty wayfarers; and without more ado, * 1 i^S^^S& Tartary, and Kashmir. 227 regardless of publicity, of the fact that theystood on the kings highway, three shamelesspale-faces stripped, and plunged them in thetank. Our camp was pitched about a quarter of a mileon, just below the village, which is considerablyabove the level of the river. A swim in the tank, before starting, bracedour limbs for the toils of the day. Shortly afterleaving Khallach we crossed the Indus by a goodwooden bridge, which the Sikhs have fortified onthe Le side of the stream. One or two fierce-looking warriors of that nation were loungiagabout, whose duty it was to collect the bridge-toll from all passers. After this we left theIndus valley, and turned up to the left, enteringa narrow gorge, along which the path wound forsome miles, continually crossing and recrossingthe stream which flowed through it towards theIndus. A sudden and steep ascent up the cliffon the right, for about one thousand feet, broughtus on to a large be
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