A shorter course in woodworking; a practical manual for home and school . Fig. 141 50 A Shorter Course in Woodworking throughout, but the sides of the boards must be in Hne (in the sameplane). Test this with the steel square or any straight-edge ( See also Circular-saw, page 100). Before gluing hard woodedges it is well to plane them with the toothed-plane. (See page 41.) Sometimes the edges of boards to be glued are made slightly concavelengthways, so that they touch at the ends but do not quite come to-gether in the middle (Fig. 143), the idea be-ing that a clamp applied at the middl
A shorter course in woodworking; a practical manual for home and school . Fig. 141 50 A Shorter Course in Woodworking throughout, but the sides of the boards must be in Hne (in the sameplane). Test this with the steel square or any straight-edge ( See also Circular-saw, page 100). Before gluing hard woodedges it is well to plane them with the toothed-plane. (See page 41.) Sometimes the edges of boards to be glued are made slightly concavelengthways, so that they touch at the ends but do not quite come to-gether in the middle (Fig. 143), the idea be-ing that a clamp applied at the middle will,by forcing the joint together for its wholelength and expelling the surplus glue, givea stronger result than if the edges arestraight. If there is to be any open placein the joint before gluing, it is better tohave it in the middle than at the ends, and in the case of long joints it maybe best to have the edges slightly apart in the middle; but with short jointsthe advantage of this method is certainly doubtful. Fig. 143. Fig. 144 36. Planing Broad Surfaces.—Keep the plane from tippingsideways at the edges or more will be planed off there than elsewhere. If much wood has to be removed, it is often best to plane acrossthe grain (called traversing) first, either planing straight across at Common Tools and Their Uses 51 Working face Fig. 145 Wo thing faceJoin-f- edge Fig. 146
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