. Collected reprints / Atlantic Oceanographic and Meteorological Laboratories [and] Pacific Oceanographic Laboratories. Oceanography 70 Geological processes lantic Bight surface (Swift et al. 1972, 1974; Swift 1973; Swift and Sears 1974; Stubble- field et al. 1974). A summary of this work constitutes the first section of this paper. As participants in NOAA's MESA (Ma- rine EcoSystems Analysis) program, we have been asked not only to evaluate the geological history of the New York Bight, but also to provide quantitative estimates of sediment transport that will be of direct use to
. Collected reprints / Atlantic Oceanographic and Meteorological Laboratories [and] Pacific Oceanographic Laboratories. Oceanography 70 Geological processes lantic Bight surface (Swift et al. 1972, 1974; Swift 1973; Swift and Sears 1974; Stubble- field et al. 1974). A summary of this work constitutes the first section of this paper. As participants in NOAA's MESA (Ma- rine EcoSystems Analysis) program, we have been asked not only to evaluate the geological history of the New York Bight, but also to provide quantitative estimates of sediment transport that will be of direct use to environmental managers. It turns out that these two goals are closely related. Our sur- veys of the shelf surface have led us to in- fer that it has been shaped by the landward retreat of two basic sedimentary regimes during the Holocene transgression: tide- dominated sedimentation at estuary mouths, and the sand transport pattern of the ad- jacent shoreface and adjacent inner shelf. Environmental engineers and managers must deal with these same regimes. To satisfy their needs, we have initiated real-time studies of fluid motion and sub- strate response. State-of-the-art techniques for such studies are inadequate and progress has been slow. We report in the second por- tion of this paper fragments of our studies of sand transport to encourage colleagues engaged in similar studies. Our own initial experiments have raised more questions than they have answered. Evolution of the continental shelf surface Evolution of shelf valley complexes—^The New York Bight is a pentagonal sector of the North American Atlantic shelf, extend- ing 800 km from Cape May, New Jersey, to Montauk Point, Long Island. Off New York, the shelf is 180 km wide (Fig. 1). The sandy shelf floor is divided into com- partments by shelf valley complexes extend- ing from the shoreline toward shelf edge canyons (Fig. 1). The most obvious ele- ments of these complexes are the shelf val- leys themselves which may a
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