. Two centuries of costume in America, MDCXX-MDCCCXX . s of Costume on every seventeenth-century portrait of Americanwomen which I have ever seen. He calls this avirago-sleeve. It was worn in Queen Elizabethsday, but was a French fashion. It is gathered veryfull in the shoulder and again at the wrist, or at the forearm. At inter-vals between, it is drawnin by gathering-stringsof narrow ribbons, orferret, which are tied in apretty knot or rose onthe upper part of thesleeve. One from aFrench portrait is givenon page 82. MadamNinon de lEnclos alsowears one. This gath-ering may be at the el-bow, f


. Two centuries of costume in America, MDCXX-MDCCCXX . s of Costume on every seventeenth-century portrait of Americanwomen which I have ever seen. He calls this avirago-sleeve. It was worn in Queen Elizabethsday, but was a French fashion. It is gathered veryfull in the shoulder and again at the wrist, or at the forearm. At inter-vals between, it is drawnin by gathering-stringsof narrow ribbons, orferret, which are tied in apretty knot or rose onthe upper part of thesleeve. One from aFrench portrait is givenon page 82. MadamNinon de lEnclos alsowears one. This gath-ering may be at the el-bow, forming thus twopuffs, or there may beseveral such drawing-strings. I have seen avirago-sleeve with fivepuffs. It is a fine deco-rative sleeve, not alwaysshapely, perhaps, but affording in the pretty knotsof ribbon some relief to the severity of the rest ofthe dress. Stubbes wrote, Some have sleeves cut up thearm, drawn out with sundry colours, pointed withsilk ribbands, and very gallantly tied with loveknotts. It was at first a convention of fashion,. Ninon de lEnclos. Dress of the New England Mothers 85 and it lingered long in some modification, that wher-ever there was a slash there was a knot of ribbon ora bunch of tags or aglets. This in its origin wasreally that the slash might be tied together. Ribbonknots were much worn; the early days of the greatcourt of Louis XIV saw an infinite use of ribbonsfor men and women. When, in the closing yearsof the century, rows of these knots were placed oneither side of the stiff busk with bars of ribbonforming a stomacher, they were called echelles, lad-ders. The Ladies Dictionary (1694) says they were much in request. This virago-sleeve was worn by women of allages and by children, both boys and girls. A virago-sleeve is worn by Rebecca Rawson (facing page 66),and by Mrs. Simeon Stoddard (facing page 76), byMadam Padishal and by her little girl, and by theGibbes child shown later in the book. A carved figure of Anne Stotevill (1631) is


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Keywords: ., boo, bookcentury1900, bookdecade1900, booksubjectclothinganddress