. The "keystone" systems, coats, vests and trousers;. tity. It must not be understood that it is always increased for forms withstooping shoulders, because a person is frequently round and stooping shouldered, but nolarger through the blades than an average or normal form. The round appearance beingdue to extreme inward curvature at the back waist, and head carried well forward. When the blades are extra full, the chest must be extra flat. The measures then, as used when drafting, are as follows : 42 breast. 44 waist. 45 sleeve. 1312 front Draft. 10 back ^ natural wais


. The "keystone" systems, coats, vests and trousers;. tity. It must not be understood that it is always increased for forms withstooping shoulders, because a person is frequently round and stooping shouldered, but nolarger through the blades than an average or normal form. The round appearance beingdue to extreme inward curvature at the back waist, and head carried well forward. When the blades are extra full, the chest must be extra flat. The measures then, as used when drafting, are as follows : 42 breast. 44 waist. 45 sleeve. 1312 front Draft. 10 back ^ natural ^ fashionable blade. For two degrees stooping shoulders the center-back-seam is advanced ^s inch forward ofA, and more is taken out between the back and sidebody at 5, as represented. All the remaining points, excepting as herein explained, are obtained in the .same man-ner as explained for Diagrams i and 2. As the waist is larger than the breast there is nothing taken out between the forepartand sidebodv at i. THE KEYSTONE SYSTEMS 29. DIAGRAM 4. 30 THE KEYSTONE SYSTEMS Whenever the blade size used is /rss than as for an average form as found on the tablefor a corresponding breast size, the star is established the same amount /orzaard of S. Whenever the blade size used is >nore than as found on the table for a correspondingbreast size, then the star is established the same amount hackivard of S. In this case the blade size used is % inch more than as on the table for 42 breast. Thestar is therefore placed ^ inch backward of S. The star now takes the place of S when establishing the remaining points on the waistline. When the waist is 4 or more inches smaller than the breast, and the blade is larger orsmaller than as for an average form as found on the table, then from the star to V is J^^ inchmore than Yz waist. See Diagrams 5 and 34. W^hen the waist is less than 4 inches smaller than the breast, as in this case, and theblade is larger or smaller than as found


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