. A visit to the Russians in central Asia. he Russians the most profound respect. A very large andvaluable copy of the Koran is also lightly and glancing with admirationat all these trtasurrs, I turned to leave themosque and suddenly observed that the outerdoor had been shut, and that three or foursilent Mollahs had made their appearance. Afeelinor of uneasiness came over me—was therumour true that I had heard of women notbeing allowed to enter mosques, that the pre-sence of strangers ever) where w^as unwelcome,and that they owed their safety to the strictorders of the Russian g
. A visit to the Russians in central Asia. he Russians the most profound respect. A very large andvaluable copy of the Koran is also lightly and glancing with admirationat all these trtasurrs, I turned to leave themosque and suddenly observed that the outerdoor had been shut, and that three or foursilent Mollahs had made their appearance. Afeelinor of uneasiness came over me—was therumour true that I had heard of women notbeing allowed to enter mosques, that the pre-sence of strangers ever) where w^as unwelcome,and that they owed their safety to the strictorders of the Russian general that they werenot to be molested ? I bowed my thanksgenerally for the courtesy shown me andmoved, not too hurriedly, to the point ofepress. Great was my relief when the won-derful door was suddenly thrown open, andexactly in front of me was an English gentle-man, Kodak in hand. There was laughter onboth sides, but for once, I am afraid, the snap-shot was not a success. The grave Mollahssmiled, waited patiently while I endeavoured. SACKED TOMB, SHAH ZINDEH in Central Asia 2 15 to make sketches of some lovely patterns intiles, and finally offered me sweetmeats, accom-panying- me down the steep steps to the roadwhere my carriage was waiting. The roads at Samarkand are fairly the park they are perfect for cycling, andmust be highly appreciated. The weatherwas all that could be desired, warm and dry,although it was already December. The nightswere frosty but marvellously beautiful ; not inthe least like the dazzling brightness that wesee in Italy, but softly gleaming with a strangestillness that sent ones thoughts wanderingback to the shepherds that watched theirflocks on a certain night that brought hopeand comfort to every being on earth. The medresse and mosque of the ChinesePrincess Bibi, wife of Tamerlane, is one of thegrandest monuments in Samarkand. An earth-quake in September 1897 rent the buildingwith a gaping fissure, and the recurrence ofsuch an accident
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