. Study of fabrics. epa-ration of starch, flour, paraffin, tallow, etc., toenable them to withstand the friction result-ing from the weaving process without break-ing. After weaving, the material is bleached,starched, and calendered, the object of the lastprocess being to give it a perfectly smooth andeven surface and also to impart a luster to thecloth as it passes through. The cloth is calen-dered several times, according to the finish re-quired. Cotton is dyed either in the yarn or in thecloth, but it has much less affinity for dyestuffsthan animal fibers, and, relatively speaking,there are
. Study of fabrics. epa-ration of starch, flour, paraffin, tallow, etc., toenable them to withstand the friction result-ing from the weaving process without break-ing. After weaving, the material is bleached,starched, and calendered, the object of the lastprocess being to give it a perfectly smooth andeven surface and also to impart a luster to thecloth as it passes through. The cloth is calen-dered several times, according to the finish re-quired. Cotton is dyed either in the yarn or in thecloth, but it has much less affinity for dyestuffsthan animal fibers, and, relatively speaking,there are only a few with which it can be dyedwithout the assistance of a mordant. Physical Characteristics.—Under the micro-scope the cotton fiber usually presents the ap-pearance of a flat, slightly twisted ribbon withthickened edges. Physically the individual cot- COTTON 13 ton fiber consists of a single long cell with oneend attached directly to the surface of the it is growing, the fiber is round and cylin-. Ttpes of Cotton Fibers 1. Glossy, dead, structureless fiber; 2. Thin, transparent, flat, unripe fiber; 3. Half ripe fiber with thin cell wall; 4. Mature, ripe fiber with full twist and thick, well-defined cell wall. drical, having a central canal running throughit, but after the pod has ripened and burst thecell wall collapses, causing the fiber to form intoa flat, ribbon-like band. -Upon ripening, the 14 THE STUDY OF FABEICS juices in the inner tube dry up, causing thecharacteristic spiral twist of ripe cotton. Thisspiral twist makes cotton valuable for spinningpurposes as it causes the fibers to lock aroundeach other more tightly. In diameter the cottonfiber is rather even for the greater part of itslength, gradually tapering to a point at its out-growing end. The lengths of different varietiesof cotton fibers vary from three-fourths to twoand one-half inches, sea-island cotton being thelongest. The hygroscopicity, or power to absorb waterwithout feeling damp, is
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Keywords: ., boo, bookcentury1900, bookdecade1920, booksubjectclothinganddress
