. Wayfaring in France, from Auvergne to the Bay of Biscay. ethe importance of the abbey of Cadouin, les bien-faictz dune reyne <PAngleterre Had it not been for other plans, I should havecontinued my journey southward from Cadouin as faras the Chateau de Biron, one of the most instructiverelics of the past in Perigord, and have taken onmy way Modieres, one of the English dastides whichEdward I. farmed for ten years; but I made myway back to the Dordogne, with the intentionof ascending the valley of its tributary the did not, however, return to Buisson, but took theroad to Ales, whic
. Wayfaring in France, from Auvergne to the Bay of Biscay. ethe importance of the abbey of Cadouin, les bien-faictz dune reyne <PAngleterre Had it not been for other plans, I should havecontinued my journey southward from Cadouin as faras the Chateau de Biron, one of the most instructiverelics of the past in Perigord, and have taken onmy way Modieres, one of the English dastides whichEdward I. farmed for ten years; but I made myway back to the Dordogne, with the intentionof ascending the valley of its tributary the did not, however, return to Buisson, but took theroad to Ales, which lies a little lower down thestream. While I was recrossing the hills the sun warmedthe world again, and led back the trembling summerwhich had been scared by the early mornings frost. n* roo MUCH PIG 239 The half-benumbed butterflies opened and shut theirwings many times upon the bramble leaves beforethey could bring themselves to believe that that pinchof winter was only a joke. It seemed a cruel jestwhile the bloom of honeysuckle was upon the Chateau de Biron : the Lodge. At Ales—a mere group of houses round a littleold church with a broad squat tower—I lunched ina very wretched inn. If a pig had not been killedat an early hour that morning I should have beenobliged to be satisfied with vegetable and egg diet ;and the knowledge that the pig had met with such 240 IN UPPER PERIGORD bad luck only a few hours before did not disposeme in favour of the various dishes prepared fromthe external and internal parts of him. Theaubergiste was an old boatman of the Dordogne,who had steered many a cargo of wine floatingwith him down-stream in time of partial flood ; butthat was before the phylloxera had played havocwith the vines. Now he had to get alon°f as wellas he could by combining husbandry, pig-rearing,and innkeeping. On reaching the river again, I perceived that theannual descent of the Auvergnats had the people who live by the higher waters of theDord
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