. Karakoram and western Himalaya 1909, an account of the expedition of H. R. H. Prince Luigi Amadeo of Savoy, duke of the Abruzzi. the mist on the leftof the valley, the lower part of which was clothed with pine woods. ? Thorc must be great variation from one year to another in ti»e .snowfall of this the Eckenstein-Pfannl-Guillarmod expedition travelled by the same road at about the sameseason in 1902 there was far less snow in the Sind valley, on the Zoji I^i and in the (lumbervalley. See the illustrations of Guillarmods book as compared with our own. 58 Chapter IV^ It was a chara
. Karakoram and western Himalaya 1909, an account of the expedition of H. R. H. Prince Luigi Amadeo of Savoy, duke of the Abruzzi. the mist on the leftof the valley, the lower part of which was clothed with pine woods. ? Thorc must be great variation from one year to another in ti»e .snowfall of this the Eckenstein-Pfannl-Guillarmod expedition travelled by the same road at about the sameseason in 1902 there was far less snow in the Sind valley, on the Zoji I^i and in the (lumbervalley. See the illustrations of Guillarmods book as compared with our own. 58 Chapter IV^ It was a characteristic Alpine winter scene, sad, monotonous andgrey, with a rainy atmosphere melting into the snow of the plain. Itseemed incredible that before many weeks passed the place would turninto a great green meadow starred with golden crocus, and with thefringe of the surrounding forest dotted with the camps of English people,whom the heat of the Kashmir summer drives up into the cooler air. We took refuge in the bungalow, consisting of a square courtyardfull of trampled snow and mud, on three sides of which runs a THE SrMD VALLEY BETWEEN SOVAMARG AND BALTAI_ on which open the doors of the sleeping rooms. Two of these are emptyand reserved for Europeans, and here we spread our camp-beds. Theothers are filthy barracks for the use of the coolies. Shortly after our arrival the 171 coolies who formed the firstdetachment began to pass through. They had spent the night half-way between Gund and Sonamarg, and were now going on to came dropping in in small detachments the coolies who marchedwith us. The courtyard and verandah were soon filled with formed groups around the fires which they hghted here and therein the mud, under kettles where the tea was boiling., in which they soak The Sincl Valley. 59 their small loaves or chupattis. They are wonderfully dirty and verygood-natured looking, and they smile at us in a friendly way. The Sonamarg bungalow lies
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