. Winter India . ed places, made the work ofarchogologists and historians comparatively easy—his descriptions as precise as those of a modern Bae-deker, his services comparable to those of Pausaniasin classic Greece. A modern council of Buddhistswas held in Ceylon in 1875, looking to the transla-tion, revision, and publication of the Cingalese andPali texts, and a Pali Text Society has forwardedthe effort to present these oldest Buddhist books tomodern readers, Dr. Rhys Davids having done mostto introduce Buddhist literature to English-speakingpeople. Dr. Max Mliller and many Continentalschola


. Winter India . ed places, made the work ofarchogologists and historians comparatively easy—his descriptions as precise as those of a modern Bae-deker, his services comparable to those of Pausaniasin classic Greece. A modern council of Buddhistswas held in Ceylon in 1875, looking to the transla-tion, revision, and publication of the Cingalese andPali texts, and a Pali Text Society has forwardedthe effort to present these oldest Buddhist books tomodern readers, Dr. Rhys Davids having done mostto introduce Buddhist literature to English-speakingpeople. Dr. Max Mliller and many Continentalscholars have given translations of the Sacred San-skrit books. It was a raw January morning, with the yellow 124 WINTER INDIA dust whirling in clouds, when I reached Gaya sta-tion on my pilgrimage to the Tree of Knowledge,and it was a cold, dull, prosaic drive of a mile ina rattling gharry to Gaya town and the dak bangla,where the government provides chill cheer for thefew European travelers who ever rest there. One. S1i5^^. elephant passed by on the station road,—a touchof the ancient East, the Hindu India, that did notaccord with the background of barbed-wire fences,telegraph poles, and railway tracks, nor with thewell-metaled highway of British India that thecreature trod upon. A string of dusty browncamels filed across the neutral, dusty distance, andturbaned folk sped by in bullock-carts or gayekhas, the native cabs, mere curtained canopies hungwith balls and bells, and the ponies caparisoned tomatch, with high, peaked collars and blue bead neck-laces. THE PLACE OF GREAT INTELLIGENCE 125 Modern Gaya, the Sahibs market, is an orderlynew town with broad thoroughfares and busy ba-zaars, the whitewashed houses, the tidy streets anddrains betraying the infallible signs of model Brit-ish rule, prosperity, and eternal sanitation. It isdistinct from the more ancient Brahm-Gaya, wherehuddled houses cut by narrow streets crowd aroundthe great Brahman temple of the Vishnupad by theriv


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