The XVIIIth century; its institutions, customs, and costumes France, 1700-1789 . pigeons, a leg of venison, sur-rounded by game of all kinds, a large sturgeon, garnished with redmullets, &c. The meat was generally cooked slowly in large boilers,with bunches of herbs and onions ; the poultry and the game werealso cooked slowly for twelve or fifteen hours. The gravies for thesoups and entries were made separately, but all roast joints, large orsmall, were placed upon spits one over the other, so as all to receivean equal amount of heat from a clear fire. In course of time the THE KITCHEN AND THE
The XVIIIth century; its institutions, customs, and costumes France, 1700-1789 . pigeons, a leg of venison, sur-rounded by game of all kinds, a large sturgeon, garnished with redmullets, &c. The meat was generally cooked slowly in large boilers,with bunches of herbs and onions ; the poultry and the game werealso cooked slowly for twelve or fifteen hours. The gravies for thesoups and entries were made separately, but all roast joints, large orsmall, were placed upon spits one over the other, so as all to receivean equal amount of heat from a clear fire. In course of time the THE KITCHEN AND THE TABLE. 379 sight of these enormous masses of meat became distasteful, and inthe new system of cookery their place was taken by smaller dishes,containinof all the essence and aroma of the larger ones. The tableservice simultaneously underwent a complete transformation, for thelarge dishes formerly used were replaced by a permanent orna-ment, also called dorinani or surtoul, and consisting as a rule of aglass stand, with a frame in silver or gold. This stood in the centre. Figs. 248 to 250.—Pieces of the silver table service, belonging to Father Germain. (See Figs. 242 to 251. of the table, and from it branched a number of vases and salvers,filled with flowers and sweetmeats, the whole being intermixed withstatuettes and candelabra in silver or silver-gilt. The snrtoiit incourse of time became so surcharged with ornaments that it coveredthe whole table, and the dishes had to be handed round to theguests one by one. These surtoiits gradually became objects of art,and as it was impossible to change them at each repast, and aspeople got tired of always seeing the same piece, no matter howmaenificent it was, it became the fashion to decorate them withflowers ; as a means of varying their appearance, a cake of pottersearth was placed upon the cloth, and the florist placed in this a lotof cut flowers, which represented a bed. Statuaries, designers, and 380 THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY. pa
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