. Wayfaring in France, from Auvergne to the Bay of Biscay. Following closely was an old and bentwoman with her head wrapped in a black had hardly gone a few steps, when her griefburst out into the most dismal wailing I had everheard, and throughout the service her melancholycries made other women cover their faces, and tearsstart from the eyes of hard-featured, weather-beatenmen. Most of the women present wore the very uglyheadgear which is the most common of all inAuvergne and the Correze, namely, a white capcovered by a straw bonnet something of the coal-scuttle pattern. There were
. Wayfaring in France, from Auvergne to the Bay of Biscay. Following closely was an old and bentwoman with her head wrapped in a black had hardly gone a few steps, when her griefburst out into the most dismal wailing I had everheard, and throughout the service her melancholycries made other women cover their faces, and tearsstart from the eyes of hard-featured, weather-beatenmen. Most of the women present wore the very uglyheadgear which is the most common of all inAuvergne and the Correze, namely, a white capcovered by a straw bonnet something of the coal-scuttle pattern. There were many communicantsat this six oclock mass, and what struck me asbeing the reverse of what one might suppose theright order of things, was that the women advancedin life wore white veils as they knelt at the altarrails, while those worn by the young, whose troubleswere still to come, were black. These veils werecarried in the hand during the earlier part of therite. Throughout a very wide region of SouthernFrance this custom prevails. The church belonged. A Moorland Widow. 16 15V THE UPPER DORDOGNE to different ages. Upon the exterior of the Roman-esque apse were uncouth carvings in relief of strangeanimal figures. They were more like lions thanany other beasts, but their outlines were such aschildren mioht have drawn. I returned to the inn. The baker had come back,and was preparing to heat his oven with dry learned that he had not only to bake the breadthat he sold, but also the coarser rye loaves whichwere brought in by those who had their own flour,but no oven. Three francs was the charge for mydinner, bed, and breakfast. The score settled andcivilities exchanged, I walked out of Messeix, ex-pecting to strike the valley of the Dordogne notvery far to the south. The landscape was againthat of the moorland. On each side of the long,dusty line called a road spread the brown turf,spangled with the pea-flowers of the broom orstained purple with heather. There were no trees
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Keywords: ., bookcentury1900, bookdecade1910, bookpublisherlondo, bookyear1913
