The Burton Holmes lectures; . nd. But when dinner is served, we enthusiastically declarethat Haj is the best cook south of Paris ; and at this hishandsome features are convulsed into a smile of proud andhappy satisfaction. The dinner served on that first eveningin our camp was a culinary triumph ; a perfect little tabled bote ; consomme ; fish, fresh from the basket of a Tangierfisherman ; sweetbread croquettes ; broiled chicken ; salad ;blancmange, cooled in a neighboring stream ; a sip of Turkishcoffee, a little glass of benedictine, and then a cigarette. Allthis prepared and served in a lit


The Burton Holmes lectures; . nd. But when dinner is served, we enthusiastically declarethat Haj is the best cook south of Paris ; and at this hishandsome features are convulsed into a smile of proud andhappy satisfaction. The dinner served on that first eveningin our camp was a culinary triumph ; a perfect little tabled bote ; consomme ; fish, fresh from the basket of a Tangierfisherman ; sweetbread croquettes ; broiled chicken ; salad ;blancmange, cooled in a neighboring stream ; a sip of Turkishcoffee, a little glass of benedictine, and then a cigarette. Allthis prepared and served in a little tent pitched far fromtown or city in the midst of the somber Moorish plain. Howit was possible for Haj to turn out from his tiny canvaskitchen, and with his crude utensils, dishes so varied anddelicious, w^as an enduring mystery to us, but we fared sump-tuously throughout the journey. We lived in greater com-fort and were better served than in the French hotels ofAlgeria or the big hotels of Spain, and we dined as well as. KK I H I- K hlJ HILL 76 INTO MOROCCO on the Paris boulevards ; and for all this, we paid a priceridiculously low. Haj provided the entire outfit. — twohorses, five mules, two donkeys, and three tents ; paid waj^esto three servants, baksheesh to the military escort, furnishedall provisions, cooked for us, schemed for us, guided us, — allfor twelve dollars daily and a present at the journey s this small sum wa spent not a penny, save for thepurchase of some little souvenirs. On the second morning, dark, lowering clouds obscure theheavens ; yet, despite the threat of a stormy day we breakcamp, a task requiring about two hours of hard labor for ourmen. Our animals are loosed and roam at will, browsingupon the fresh sweet clover. The men of the neighboringvillage, who have been guarding the camp since evening,return to their huts at daybreak ; all night they sat in groupsaround our tents, chanting or mumbling prayers to keepthemselves awake. We


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Keywords: ., bookcentury1900, bookdecade1900, booksubjectvoyages, bookyear1901