Beyond the Pir Panjal; life among the mountains and valleys of Kashmir . in order,and also carried on by-play—behaving like circus clowns. Next thirteen richly-dressed figures with black hats(rather like large stiff Tarn o Shanters) came dancing downthe steps. On top of each hat there was an erection about10 inches in height with a tiny model of a skull in the dancer had a handkerchief tied over his mouth, a pieceof skull in his hand, and a life-size picture of a skull suspendedin front of his rich robes. These black-hatted devil dancersproceeded to hop round in a circle—revolving


Beyond the Pir Panjal; life among the mountains and valleys of Kashmir . in order,and also carried on by-play—behaving like circus clowns. Next thirteen richly-dressed figures with black hats(rather like large stiff Tarn o Shanters) came dancing downthe steps. On top of each hat there was an erection about10 inches in height with a tiny model of a skull in the dancer had a handkerchief tied over his mouth, a pieceof skull in his hand, and a life-size picture of a skull suspendedin front of his rich robes. These black-hatted devil dancersproceeded to hop round in a circle—revolving from right toleft and left to right alternately on each leg to an accompani-ment of quiet singing and measured beating of drums andsubdued clash of cymbals by the band. Two Lamas nowcame forward and gave a little brush of twigs to each dancer,and then placed a small image on the ground and a pan of livecharcoal. A Lama remained standing by this, holding abunch of peacocks feathers in his hand. The black-hattedones now danced round slowly, waving coloured silk rags. THE UPPER INDUS VALLEY 197 round their brushes. Quiet singing by the Lamas was con-tinued. Then clarionets sounded from the top of the steps,,and the dancers slowly went off in that direction. After this there was a pause of five minutes, during whicha steady, low, measured beating of drums and cymbals wascarried on. Then the clarionets sounded out and sixteenfigures trooped on, clothed in rich costumes of Chinesebrocade—some blue, others red, green and yellow. They hadflat brazen masks, tall caps, and each held in his left hand asmall bell and brass sceptre (dorje), and in the right a tinydouble drum (daru). The leaders drum was white, all therest were green. The band sings, the dancers step to rightand left, close in, form a smaller circle, rattle their drumsand bells, and after measured chanting they caper trumpets are now blown on the steps and they run offtwo by two. More quiet singing is carried


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Keywords: ., bookcentury1900, bookdecade1910, booksubjectmountai, bookyear1912