Study of occupations in the cloak, suit, and skirt industry of Greater New York and an apprenticeship plan for cutters ... . hesample maker make a model, using for this purpose pressing material gets its name from the use made of it by the presser (whois described later), who places a piece of it between the hot iron andthe garment on which he is working during the process of pressing. 112 BULLETIN OF THE BUREAU OF LABOR STATISTICS. Pressing cloth is a light weight of unbleached linen duck. Asidefrom the uses mentioned, it is sometimes used in making pocketsin trousers in cheap grad
Study of occupations in the cloak, suit, and skirt industry of Greater New York and an apprenticeship plan for cutters ... . hesample maker make a model, using for this purpose pressing material gets its name from the use made of it by the presser (whois described later), who places a piece of it between the hot iron andthe garment on which he is working during the process of pressing. 112 BULLETIN OF THE BUREAU OF LABOR STATISTICS. Pressing cloth is a light weight of unbleached linen duck. Asidefrom the uses mentioned, it is sometimes used in making pocketsin trousers in cheap grades of mens clothing. The designer places the model made of pressing cloth on a dummyform and uses it as a basis from which to derive a new style. With apiece of black crayon he indicates on the goods the various changesthat will produce the new garment that he has in mind. By changingthe location of seams, size and shape of lapel, style and position ofpocket or cuff, amount of cutaway, or length, a new garment iscreated. The pressing-cloth model is then taken apart and cut on DRAFT OF PATTERN FOR PLAIN STANDARD the new lines as indicated by the black-crayon marks. The separatepieces are then pressed out, and laid in position on a large sheet ofpaper. After making the necessary allowances for seams the exactshape of each piece that is to enter into the garment is traced on thepaper. The paper is then cut on the lines as drawn, and the severalpieces of paper resulting constitute the pattern for the proposednew garment. The original pattern is always made in size 36. A sample cutter cuts out the material for a model or trial garment,again using the pressing cloth, without lining or interlining, and thesample maker puts it together. This model is examined very care- OCCUPATIONS IN CLOAK INDUSTRY OF NEW YORK CITY. 113 fully by the designer to determine whether it fulfills the requirementsin every respect. If necessary, it is ripped apart, alterations aremade, and it is fitt
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