. The Earth beneath the sea : History . 3000 2000 1000 DISTANCE FEET Fig. 9. Profile of a natural fine sand beach at La Jolla, California, siiowing the median sand size, the maxinium seasonal change in the level of the sand associated with winter and summer waves, and the thickness of the modern littoral sand over the wave-cut terrace. Note the very gentle slopes. (After Inman, 1953.) and the small size of sand together appear to give rise to a type of transverse sweejiing motion which cannot be reproduced in narrow two-dimensional models. It seems likely that this sweeping motion, the cause o
. The Earth beneath the sea : History . 3000 2000 1000 DISTANCE FEET Fig. 9. Profile of a natural fine sand beach at La Jolla, California, siiowing the median sand size, the maxinium seasonal change in the level of the sand associated with winter and summer waves, and the thickness of the modern littoral sand over the wave-cut terrace. Note the very gentle slopes. (After Inman, 1953.) and the small size of sand together appear to give rise to a type of transverse sweejiing motion which cannot be reproduced in narrow two-dimensional models. It seems likely that this sweeping motion, the cause of which is not understood, may give rise to the formation of beach cusps. For reasons already suggested little attention has been paid to the littoral profile offshore of the plunge line. In many regions the sea bed remains sufficiently shallow to be affected by wave action for great distances offshore. Formation of ripples and active movement of sand on the sea bed has been
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Keywords: ., bookcentury1900, bookcollectionbiodivers, booksubjectoceanbottom
