. Two centuries of costume in America, MDCXX-MDCCCXX . white linen over two yards long,passed twice or thrice close around the throat andsimply lapped under the chin, not knotted. Theupper end hung fromtwelve to sixteen incheslong. The other andlonger end was carrieddown to a low waist-line and tucked in be-tween the buttons ofthe waistcoat. Oftenthe free end of thisscarf was trimmed withlace or cut-work; in-deed, the whole scarfmight be of embroid-ery or lace, but thesimpler lawn or mullappears to have beenin better taste. This tie is seen in this portrait ofThomas Fayerweather, by Smybert, a
. Two centuries of costume in America, MDCXX-MDCCCXX . white linen over two yards long,passed twice or thrice close around the throat andsimply lapped under the chin, not knotted. Theupper end hung fromtwelve to sixteen incheslong. The other andlonger end was carrieddown to a low waist-line and tucked in be-tween the buttons ofthe waistcoat. Oftenthe free end of thisscarf was trimmed withlace or cut-work; in-deed, the whole scarfmight be of embroid-ery or lace, but thesimpler lawn or mullappears to have beenin better taste. This tie is seen in this portrait ofThomas Fayerweather, by Smybert, and in modi-fied forms on many other pages. We now find constant references to the Steinkirk,a new cravat. As we see it frequently stated thatthe Steinkirk was a black tie, I may state here thatall the Steinkirks I have seen have been white. Iknow no portraits with black neck-cloths. I findno allusions in old-time literature or letters to blackSteinkirks. A Steinkirk was a white cravat, not knotted, butfastened so looselv as to seem folded rather than. Thomas Fayerweather. 212 Two Centuries of Costume tied, twisted sometimes twice or thrice, with one orboth ends passed through a buttonhole of the wore them, as well as men, arranged withequal appearance of careless negligence; and thesoft diagonal folds of linen and lace made a prettyfinish at the throat, as pretty as any high neck-dressing could be. These cravats were called Stein-kirks after the battle of Steinkirk, when some ofthe French princes, not having time to perform anelaborate toilet before going into action, hurriedlytwisted their lace cravats about their necks andpulled them through a buttonhole, simply to fixthem safely in place. The fashionable world eagerlyfollowed their example. It is curious that theSteinkirk should have been popular in England,where the name might rather have been a bitteravoidance. The battle of Steinkirk took place in 1694. Anearly English allusion to the neckwear thus namedis in
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Keywords: ., boo, bookcentury1900, bookdecade1900, booksubjectclothinganddress
