. The "Keystone" system. A text-book on cutting and designing ladies' garments. e lineis drawn from O inside of D to B. When a standing collar is used the stand of which is more than 2 inches, it willrise too high ; then the neck-seam is lowered all around yi inch, placing the seamlower on the shoulder. When a jacket pattern is used which has no seams added, then they must beadded to the ulster. Before cutting out or when drafting the side-seam of the front, lay the side-body seam on that of the front, the top at X and hip at N, close to each other, oneresting on top of the other. When in this
. The "Keystone" system. A text-book on cutting and designing ladies' garments. e lineis drawn from O inside of D to B. When a standing collar is used the stand of which is more than 2 inches, it willrise too high ; then the neck-seam is lowered all around yi inch, placing the seamlower on the shoulder. When a jacket pattern is used which has no seams added, then they must beadded to the ulster. Before cutting out or when drafting the side-seam of the front, lay the side-body seam on that of the front, the top at X and hip at N, close to each other, oneresting on top of the other. When in this position follow the line of side down tothe bottom, which will give G. Both seams must be of the same shape to give agood effect. On a very large form which requires much material around it, it may happenthat closing the side in the manner explained, may make the distance from thefront, j, at bottom to G more than the usual width of goods. If such is the case,the side-body is cut separate, and the seams are extended to the bottom. tHE KEYSTONE SYSTEM FOR LADIES GARMENTS. 27. DIAGRAM II. 28 THE KEYSTONE SYSTEM FOR LADIES GARMENTS. SLEEVES. DIAGRAM 12. TO draft a sleeve we need the arm-hole measure and the get the first, measure the arm-hole of the pattern carefully all around,and see that in doing this there is no slack in the tape. If the measure is taken from the pattern as cut, and minus the seams, then wemust add seams after it is cut out. If, however, we have taken the size of arm-holefrom a pattern whose seams have already been added, then the size will be largeenough without more addition. We shall take a size of 16-inch arm-hole to draft by, and commence first bydrawing the line O, B, (see diagram 12) and at right angles draw one from O to F. From O to F is ^ of scye-measure. A line is squared down from F to U. From O down to A is always V3 the scye-measure. Square out from A. O down to D is %,, and from V up to E is the same. At both these points we draw shor
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