. All the Russias: travels and studies in contemporary European Russia, Finland, Siberia, the Caucasus, and Central Asia. ely fresh, is also quite uncooked, and only hoursof stewing could have made it fit to eat. Would you try the plat national again?—it might be betterhere, says someone, a day or two later. Not again, is thereply; *let us wait till we get to England; my cook does itbeautifully: Navets de mouton a la hroche. No more Circassianshashlik baa-ing at me, if you please. I made plans at Kasbek for an early ride up the mountainsopposite, to see the httle ancient church, 1,400 feet abo
. All the Russias: travels and studies in contemporary European Russia, Finland, Siberia, the Caucasus, and Central Asia. ely fresh, is also quite uncooked, and only hoursof stewing could have made it fit to eat. Would you try the plat national again?—it might be betterhere, says someone, a day or two later. Not again, is thereply; *let us wait till we get to England; my cook does itbeautifully: Navets de mouton a la hroche. No more Circassianshashlik baa-ing at me, if you please. I made plans at Kasbek for an early ride up the mountainsopposite, to see the httle ancient church, 1,400 feet above us,of Tsminda-Sameba, not that of itself this presents much in- 194 ALL THE RUSSIAS terest, but the view of the mountain, and especially of its greatblack side where Prometheus was chained (though the legend isinaccurate after all, for ^schylus distinctly speaks of Pro-metheuss rock as above the sea and far from the Caucasus), wassaid to be beautiful, and I wished to enjoy a ride in true Cau-casian spirit. A quarter to seven was the hour fixed, and Iretired early, to be ready. When I arose at six, it was upon a. The Georgian Road- Round the Mountain Side. world of snow that I looked out. Everything was white, andthat broad-flaked, Christmas-card kind of snow we used to havein England, was falling. The stables and the yard were white;:the poor camel even had little drifts between his humps, andabsurd tufts of it all over him; you could not see fifty yards away,and all the mountains had retired within the veil. This put offmy ride, and even alarmed us somewhat about the Pass and itscondition. There was no mistake—the snow had come to stay; THE GEORGIAN ROAD 195 it was winter snow. What I saw fall as I looked out of the win-dow would be there till next April. We started at once, the hood of the carriage up, and littlevisible beyond the back of the driver in his thick pleated woollengown, but all round in the grey air the broad flakes were in sus-pension, apparently falling
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