. Bulletin. Ethnology. OY-s Costume; wester Eskimo. ( Murdoch * buffalo was worn for robes by tribes of the plains, and even for dresses and leg- gings by older people, but the leather was too harsh for clothing generally, while elk or moose skin, although soft, was too thick. Fabrics of bark, hair, fur, mountain-sheep wool, and feathers were made in the n. Pacific, Pueblo, and southern regions, and cotton has been woven l)y the Hopi from ancient times. Climate, environ- ment, elevation, and oceanic currents de- termined the materi- als used for clothing as well as the demand for clothing. Sin


. Bulletin. Ethnology. OY-s Costume; wester Eskimo. ( Murdoch * buffalo was worn for robes by tribes of the plains, and even for dresses and leg- gings by older people, but the leather was too harsh for clothing generally, while elk or moose skin, although soft, was too thick. Fabrics of bark, hair, fur, mountain-sheep wool, and feathers were made in the n. Pacific, Pueblo, and southern regions, and cotton has been woven l)y the Hopi from ancient times. Climate, environ- ment, elevation, and oceanic currents de- termined the materi- als used for clothing as well as the demand for clothing. Sinew from the tendons of the larger animals was the usual sewing ma- terial, but fibers of plants, especially the agave, were also em- ployed. Bone awls were used in sewing; l)oiie needles were rarely employed and were too large for fine work. The older needlework is of exceptionally good char- acter and shows great skill with the awl. Unlike many other arts, sewing was prac- tised by both sexes, and each sex usually made its own clothing. The ty})ical and more familiar costume of the Indian man was of tanned buckskin and consisted of a shirt, a breeriicloth, leggings tied to a l)elt or waist-strap, and low mocca- sins. The shirt, which hung free over the hips, was provided with sleeves and was designed to be drawn over the head. The woman's costume differed from that of the man in the length of the shirt, which had short .'^leeves hanging loosely over the upper arm, and in the absence of the breechcloth. Women also wore tiie belt to confine the garment at the waist. Robes of skin, woven fabrics, iir of feathers were also worn, but l)Iankets( )were substituted forthese later. The costume presented tribal dif- ferences in cut, color, and ornamentation. The free edges were generally fringed, and quill embroidery and beadwork, paint- ing, scalp-locks, tails of animals, feathers, claws, hoofs, shells, etc., were applied. cs COSTUME; Wester (Murdoch). Please note that these images


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