The land of the Moors; a comprehensive description . y waysatisfactory. But such a task was one of varied, some-times strange, experience. Often I have had to put up in strange quarters; sometimes without any quarters at all. I have slept in the mansions of Moorish merchants, and rolled OuarUrs P ^^ ^^ cloak in the street. I have occupied the guest chambers of country governors and sheikhs, and I have passed the night on the wheat in a granary, wondering whether fleas or grains were more numerous. I have been accommodated in the house of a Jewish Rabbi, making a somewhat similar observation ST
The land of the Moors; a comprehensive description . y waysatisfactory. But such a task was one of varied, some-times strange, experience. Often I have had to put up in strange quarters; sometimes without any quarters at all. I have slept in the mansions of Moorish merchants, and rolled OuarUrs P ^^ ^^ cloak in the street. I have occupied the guest chambers of country governors and sheikhs, and I have passed the night on the wheat in a granary, wondering whether fleas or grains were more numerous. I have been accommodated in the house of a Jewish Rabbi, making a somewhat similar observation STRANGE QUARTERS 425 with regard to an insect of far worse type with which itswarmed, and I have been the guest of a Jewish Con-sular Agent of a Foreign Power, where the awful stenchfrom the drains was not exceeded by that of the worsthovel I ever entered. I have even succeeded in wooingMorpheus out on the sea-shore, under the lea of a rock,and I have found the debris by the side of a straw rickan excellent couch till it came on to rain. Vet again, I. A Nl(;fITS LODGING IN RAIIAMNA. Pholograph by Dr. RudJtick. have been one of half a dozen on the floor of a window-less and doorless summer-house in the middle of the rainyseason. The tent of the wandering Arab has affordedme shelter, along with calves and chickens and legionsof fleas, and I have actually passed the night in avillage mosque. Once my lodging was a hut in which a quadruplemurder had been committed, empty and even uncleaned 426 IN MOORISH GUISE for the couple of months which had elapsed since thatghastly event, the blood-stains being still on the walls. On other occasions I had the utmost difficultynmlufties ^ ^^ select a spot where I could sit without being under some hole in the roof, through whichthe rain poured incessantly, and when I lay down I hadto be protected by my waterproof. The room, a largegarret, the thatched roof of which permitted one to standup only in the middle third, was packed with fieldlabourers,
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