. Study of fabrics. i of fleece wool, the product of one yearsgrowth. The fleeces are rolled in bundles asthey come to the mill, and are sorted accordingto quality and length of fiber, the • wool fromthe shoulders and sides being, usually, the choic-est part of the fleece. After sorting, the woolis washed to remove the grease and dirt; driedand oiled to render it soft; burrj^d and carbon-ized to remove seeds, leaves, and burrs; andblended, by which means a more even yam isproduced. After the wool is blended it comesout in a soft, fleecy condition, ready to becarded. The carding machine finishe
. Study of fabrics. i of fleece wool, the product of one yearsgrowth. The fleeces are rolled in bundles asthey come to the mill, and are sorted accordingto quality and length of fiber, the • wool fromthe shoulders and sides being, usually, the choic-est part of the fleece. After sorting, the woolis washed to remove the grease and dirt; driedand oiled to render it soft; burrj^d and carbon-ized to remove seeds, leaves, and burrs; andblended, by which means a more even yam isproduced. After the wool is blended it comesout in a soft, fleecy condition, ready to becarded. The carding machine finishes the cleaning,separates and straightens the fibers, and deliv-ers the wool in soft strands called slivers. If the wool is to be used for worsted materialit must be further straightened and have theshort ends or noils removed by a processcalled combing. This leaves only the good longfibers lying practically parallel to each other. The combing process is unnecessary in themanufacture of woolen materials as the yams. A Pair of Hand Cards37 38 THE STUDY OF FABRICS are composed of short ifibers wMcli cross andare somewhat matted. The processes of drawing and spinning drawout and twist the long soft rolls until the threadis reduced to the size required. Before weaving, the warp yarn is sized by astarch preparation to enable the threads towithstand the friction due to the constant weav-ing back and forth of the weft thread., It isthen placed on the loom, th9 warp runninglengthwise. The filling thread, or weft, iswound on a bobbin, which is fastened in a shut-tle, allowing the thread to unwind as it is passedback and forth. As fast as the weft passesthrough between the warp threads, which areseparated in different groups to form the pat-tern, it is beaten up tight against the precedingthread, thereby keeping the cloth firm and even. Dyeing is done either in the yarn or in thepiece, the piece-dyed materials being of a singlecolor, while wools dyed in the yarn allow va-rious combinati
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Keywords: ., boo, bookcentury1900, bookdecade1920, booksubjectclothinganddress
