Days near Rome . ojecting apse. A little further is S. Francesco, withstrange bas-reliefs in its little fore-court. Hence the Viadeir Antico Acropole, a street full of long steep staircases,beloved by artists, leads up to a terrace under Cyclopeanwalls of huge stones, something like those of Alatri. Thedark passage caverned under these walls emerges close tothe Dnomo (SS. Giovanni e Paolo), which, externally, hasmuch of its Lombard architecture remaining; and, within,a splendid opus-alexandrinum pavement, mended with frag-ments of sculptured marble-work, and a glorious twistedmosaic pillar nea


Days near Rome . ojecting apse. A little further is S. Francesco, withstrange bas-reliefs in its little fore-court. Hence the Viadeir Antico Acropole, a street full of long steep staircases,beloved by artists, leads up to a terrace under Cyclopeanwalls of huge stones, something like those of Alatri. Thedark passage caverned under these walls emerges close tothe Dnomo (SS. Giovanni e Paolo), which, externally, hasmuch of its Lombard architecture remaining; and, within,a splendid opus-alexandrinum pavement, mended with frag-ments of sculptured marble-work, and a glorious twistedmosaic pillar nearly the whole height of the church, securedagainst the wall by iron clamps. Behind the church is thebishops palace, with a stately old staircase guarded bymarble lions. A crowded street, where old women, like the Fates ofMichael Angelo, sit spinning in their doorways, surrounded FERENTINO. 257 by their domestic circles of goats, cats, dogs, and pigs, alljoining vociferously in the conversation, leads to the lower. Bishops Staircase, Ferentino. town. The stone used as the font in the little church of StGiovanni Evangelista has an inscription from the inhabitantsof Ferentinum to Cornelia Salonina, wife of the unconqueredGallienus. From the piazza, where a number of Romanaltars are collected, we have a magnificent view over moun-tain and plain. Hence, also, one may learn, by lookingdown, to find ones way through the intricate maze of filthyalleys, many of which have such stately names as Via dellAtreo, Vicolo dei Bagni de Flavio, Vicolo del Calidario,&c., to the finest of the churches, Sta. Maria Maggiore,which, in its beautiful west front, has a door with detachedred marble columns banded together, and above it the VOL. I. 17 258 DA YS NEAR ROME. emblems of the Evangelists on either side of the Lamb ofGod, and a grand rose window.


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Keywords: ., bookcentury1800, bookdecade1870, booksubjectromeita, bookyear1875