. Collected reprints / Atlantic Oceanographic and Meteorological Laboratories [and] Pacific Oceanographic Laboratories. Oceanography 50 100 Km. â J!:;f>^;f-:;i!''^l=,'=-'^^^^ 15 I- Ul u " TIME (DAYS) Figure 4. A. Progressive vector diagram from Geodyne 102-C current meter mounted 100 cm off sea floor between Light Tower Ridge and Middle Ridge. B. Time-velocity record for velocity compo- nent in flow direction. Stippled band is envelope of threshold velocities based on Shields criterion for unidirectional flow. C. Time-velocity plot for velocity component trans
. Collected reprints / Atlantic Oceanographic and Meteorological Laboratories [and] Pacific Oceanographic Laboratories. Oceanography 50 100 Km. â J!:;f>^;f-:;i!''^l=,'=-'^^^^ 15 I- Ul u " TIME (DAYS) Figure 4. A. Progressive vector diagram from Geodyne 102-C current meter mounted 100 cm off sea floor between Light Tower Ridge and Middle Ridge. B. Time-velocity record for velocity compo- nent in flow direction. Stippled band is envelope of threshold velocities based on Shields criterion for unidirectional flow. C. Time-velocity plot for velocity component transverse to main flow direction. velocity of 50 cm sec"'. Observations by the vessel retrieving the meter suggested lat this current reversal was associated \. ith an offshore shift of the shear zone between :he shelf flow and the Gulf Stream as described above. Wave Climate Wave-and-swell conditions were among the observations recorded at three-hour intervals at the Diamond Light 12 n mi (ap- proximately 22 km) east of Cape Hatteras. The water depth at this site is m. Quantification of these data suffers from a random bias inherent in watch schedules and crew rotation. Under these circum- stances, various individuals enter height and directional data. However, the sum- mary presented in Figurr j is the result of 4,586 observations during the period March 1973 through September 1974, . d, without doubt, the trends shown are close approximations of actual conditions. These data reveal a strong tendency for both waves and swell to transit the tower site from north to south. It should be noted that the tower is evacuated when intense storms threaten the site, so extreme values for wave height cannot be recorded. One entry of a 13-m wave (February 11, 1973) from the north has been noted, but the critical periods during intense storms remain unob- served. SUBSTRATE RESPONSE TO FLOW Surficial Sediment Pattern Grab samples were collected by Shipek sampler in a radial pattern e
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