Travels in the Atlas and Southern Morocco, a narrative of exploration . avel, and he was apt in consequence toforget that the mule was in no wise to blame for thefact that he could not buy or hire a suitable horse. I myself brought up the rear on a delightful littlebarb, which I had bought and christened Toby.* AsI ambled easily along, I could afford to compassionatethe unavailing efforts of my companion to get intoaccord with the unwonted and exasperatingly irregularmovements of his charger. Leaving Casablanca—the Dar el Baida of the Arabs—we set our faces southwards. Passing through a series


Travels in the Atlas and Southern Morocco, a narrative of exploration . avel, and he was apt in consequence toforget that the mule was in no wise to blame for thefact that he could not buy or hire a suitable horse. I myself brought up the rear on a delightful littlebarb, which I had bought and christened Toby.* AsI ambled easily along, I could afford to compassionatethe unavailing efforts of my companion to get intoaccord with the unwonted and exasperatingly irregularmovements of his charger. Leaving Casablanca—the Dar el Baida of the Arabs—we set our faces southwards. Passing through a series of rich vegetable-gardens,we found ourselves on a breezy and grassy expansewhich stretched away south in undulating treeless mono- 36 MOROCCO. tony. A few herds and flocks grazing to right and left,and a varied succession of country-people on donkeysor trudging along behind camels, alone attracted ourattention. Gradually the plain rose into a palmetto-clad andboulder-strewn ridge, from the top of which we tookour last view of Casablanca. Turning to the south, we. saw little to promise an interesting ride. As far astlie eye could reach, the country spread itself out inlow grassy undulations, unrelieved by rock or tree, byhill or valley. The sole conspicuous objects were theglaring whitewashed cupola-covered tombs of saints,called kuhas, which everywhere reminded the traveller TANGIER TO AZAMOR. 37 of the good Mussulmans who had died, but whoseinfluence still lived for good to those who resorted totheir shrines to pray. The view was not lacking incharm, however, wherever we could see the irregularcoast-line and the green headlands running into thedeep blue ocean. And if the surroundings were notspecially attractive, we could at least hear the impressiveroar of the breaking rollers and inhale the fresh sea-breeze. Full of joyous spirits and the exhilarating sense offreedom from conventional trammels, we dubbed the Pilgrim {El Hadj) our Taleh (teacher), and demandedof him inst


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Keywords: ., boo, bookcentury1800, bookdecade1880, bookidtravelsinatlass00thom