. Karakoram and western Himalaya 1909, an account of the expedition of H. R. H. Prince Luigi Amadeo of Savoy, duke of the Abruzzi. own from the southern wallof K-, and went up the Godwin Austen to the foot of the southernridge, some 500 feet higher than the base camp, traversing the brokenmargin of the glacier and the shallow depression between it and the wall,and climbing up over Inoken detritus loosely scattered over the solidrock. The incline moderate. He kept close to the right side ofthe ridge, and reached a sheltered snmiy nook (18,245 feet high) at thebase of a rocky tooth, where t


. Karakoram and western Himalaya 1909, an account of the expedition of H. R. H. Prince Luigi Amadeo of Savoy, duke of the Abruzzi. own from the southern wallof K-, and went up the Godwin Austen to the foot of the southernridge, some 500 feet higher than the base camp, traversing the brokenmargin of the glacier and the shallow depression between it and the wall,and climbing up over Inoken detritus loosely scattered over the solidrock. The incline moderate. He kept close to the right side ofthe ridge, and reached a sheltered snmiy nook (18,245 feet high) at thebase of a rocky tooth, where the guides dejiosited the equipment. Little 23G Chapter XIII. levels were soon made by means of retaining walls, for the twoWhymper tents. The coolies camped close by. After a few hours ofrest and some food, the guides, porters and coolies, with their loads,started on again. But only a short distance from the tents the cooliesflung down their burdens and turned back, despite the commands andentreaties of the guides. The latter kept on climbing between theprincipal ridge and a secondary one to the east of it. and then by small. SOUTHERN RIDOE OP K =. ravines and divisional crests, till they reached a narrow saddle less than1,000 feet above the camp. The rock was broken and mingled withsnow and ice, but thus far the way had not been difficult, though hereand there exposed to falling stones. They put down their loads on thissaddle, and went back to the tents. May 31st turned out unexpectedly fine and still. The loads nowweighed only 25 lbs., and the coolies consented to take them and followthe guides up to the saddle. A steep icy coidoir runs down to it, dividesand continues lower down in two branches. It was impossible to climb Iroin Coiifordia to the Foot of K . up along the rocks on tlie sides of tlie couloirs, so the guides went upthe gully itself, leaving the coolies at the bottom with Bareux. Theyclimbed for a short distance on hard snow, then on bare ice, stickingto the


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